Andamans

 

Normally, when we hear the word “island”, we imagine a remote, faraway, isolated area, perhaps uninhabited and unwelcoming. But our family holiday destination at the end of 2022, the Andaman Islands, gave it a unique definition. A group of picturesque islands shimmering splendidly in the Bay of Bengal to the east of the Indian mainland, they welcomed visitors unabashedly. Numbering close to 550 islands, only 30 of these are said to be inhabited.

Lush, tropical evergreen forests define much of the landscape. The terrain of the islands is formed of sandstone and limestone. The fauna and flora, both on land and in water, are very special. The luxuriant coconut, palm and betelnut trees, banana plantations as well as the natural fortress of coral reefs are very well protected. Even the dense mangrove forests running along the coastline and forming a distinct barrier of vegetation against the calamities from the sea are under government protection.

Port Blair was our first stop from Chennai. This is the only airport that caters to tourists to the islands. Now called Veer Savarkar airport, there is a strong naval presence here and hence photography in the airport is strictly prohibited. The hotel we stayed in was – welcoming, befitting its name, WelcomHotel. From the reception area, you could see that the sea was almost at the hotel’s doorstep. The heaving, heavy sound of the waves at high tide and the rippling, gurgling sounds at low tide were like music to our ears.

The fresh breeze from the sea hugged the coconut trees before it tugged at our hair. Arjun and Ashwin were happily unruffled. Meera instantly fell in love with the amazing natural scenery and the hotel’s swimming pool and took to it like a fish to water.

On our must-see schedule were Ross Island and the cellular jail. The jetty for Ross Island and the other islands was choc-a-bloc with tourists, all excited to start their adventure. But because of choppy waters, permission was not given to ply the boats. The tour agents had a tough time placating the growing and angry crowds, hot under the collar both because of the heat and the frustration. But the administration is quite strict (and rightly so) and rules were obeyed dutifully. Hopeful cap/hat sellers were tempting the people with their colourful wares. Some people were tempted and decided to spend time and money instead of twiddling their thumbs. We decided to walk to the close by Cellular jail in the interim – the tour agent we had approached seemed to be happy with our non-complaining (Hyderabadi) attitude and said he would call us once things were in place.

The 3 storey cellular jail stands as a mute spectator of the freedom fighting days. As a penal settlement of British rule, the place became known after the 1857 war of Independence. Freedom fighters who, the British feared, would spread rebellion, were imprisoned here and subjected to inhuman torture. Instruments used to subjugate them physically and psychologically so as to keep them dispirited are displayed in a museum. The grim hanging room is a reminder of the violent fate of the brave nationalists. We were shown the long rows of dark, small, dingy cells where the British made sure there was no scope for “verbal” contact and the prisoners remained incommunicado. Two eternal flames near the entrance shed light on the heavy scenario – the only bright spots in this place. 

As we were going up to the second floor to see Savarkar’s cell (which would have been no different from the others on the ground floor except for his photo, perhaps) we got the phone call – the sea was less rough and the permission had been granted.

We walked back to the pier, had our life jackets strapped on, and with consequent minimum mobility, got into the boat via a dangerously floating moving platform. With hands held out for me from all directions. I managed to raise my now wooden legs, hold on to the wooden post and gracelessly plonk myself into the boat. Then on, it was a fun ride to Ross Island. The boat sped fast and the roaring, swirling waters splashing on our backs and faces was not unwelcome and we were yelling in glee like kids.

Ross Island was an unforgettable experience. The headquarters of the penal settlement, Indian freedom fighters were ‘ab’used to clear the dense tropical forest and build a paradise for the British. Clubs, bazaars, bakeries, tennis courts, ballrooms, church, offices were so embellished with all amenities that the place was called “Paris of the East”. Once full of light and life they were later mostly destroyed by natural calamities. One can see these buildings now, many roofless and in the vicious grip of aerial roots of tropical trees. 

The island was occupied by the British during the pre-independence era until they abandoned it in 1941. Everything was overseen from this island including the construction of the cellular jail. The Japanese occupied it in 1942 during World War II. When they came to the island, the Indians were happy and hopeful, little knowing that it would be a worse scenario. The Japanese war bunkers built in concrete and located at strategic points are fairly well preserved.  One of the more hidden bunkers was discovered by Aruna. Once the seat of Colonial power, the sprawling creepers and banyan trees seemed to throttle the life out of the buildings. Some of the oldest British and Japanese structures have survived the vagaries of nature and colonists.

We were glad the electric cars to take people around were not available that day because the long leisurely walk was a better way of seeing the breath-taking architectural ruins. Among these ruins, there’s an almost magical, protected forest, a sanctuary for a variety of birds and animals including peacocks and deer. Under the shade of tall, tropical trees, the friendly, free and fearless animals thrive. We saw not only deer and peacocks but also a rooster (crowing at regular intervals as if to decide on the best tone) and its family.

The island was renamed Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Dweep because the first tricolour on the soil of any part of Indian territory is said to have been hoisted here by Netaji Bose. Many still call it Ross Island, perhaps because Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Dweep can be quite a mouthful. The four-letter name (not word) is easier on the tongue.

It was with a tinge of sadness that we left the picturesque hotel, with its panoramic view of the sea, the frolicking waves, the palm trees swaying in the breeze and just a road between the magical scene and us. How one can become attached to even a temporary abode is a mystery to me.

Havelock Island, the largest of the Andaman Islands, and now called Swaraj Dweep, was a dream destination only accessible by ferry. The jetty again was a sea of humanity. People of all ages were excited at the prospect of cruising to another island.

On the boat, it was such a welcome surprise to enter the Royal Box booked by A&A. Just the 7 of us and comfortable, cushioned seats. Narration of old memories and modes of travel kept us in nostalgic splits as the voyage started. Then the smooth waters suddenly became choppy and the boat seemed to be lifted high by the waves and brought down heavily. The see-saw effect was a bit too much for me and was I sick! Everyone, especially Meera, still remembers the mayonnaise sandwich (served as refreshments) that must have added to the misery.

I must have been the happiest person when we docked. Hundreds spilled out of our boat. Other boats and other people too added to the swelling crowd. All the luggage was laid out neatly on the ground making it easy for people to pick theirs and it was just a short time for identifying our bags and dragging them till the cabs sent by the resort. All of us got in one car and were told the bags would come in another. I think I was relaxed for the first time; instinctively I knew the islanders were trustworthy.

Our resort, Tilar Siro, was special. The name, Tilar Siro comes from the original inhabitants of the Andaman archipelago, the Great Andamanese Tribe, who referred to the island as 'Thi-Lar-Siro', 'Thi' means Earth, 'Lar' means From and 'Siro' means Sea.

We were given a briefing about the resort and what was a novel offer was the free laundering of 6 items of clothing per room per day. All our rooms (two on the ground floor and one on the first floor) were sea-facing. Our large rooms had balconies which made for a good morning coffee nook. Meera was thrilled by the swimming pool, a few steps away from our rooms She taught A&A to float and was quite proud of her role as Guru. If she was not in a mood to get up early, she’d say she was doing ‘ Horizontal Meditation’.

 A very eco-friendly place, the tall luxuriant coconut trees and white sands lined our path from the pool to the beach which was bordered by thick mangrove trees. We had cool walks in the night, when also, because of the unpolluted atmosphere and absolutely clear skies we could see stars and planets and constellations in all their glory from between the canopy of trees. 

We also would wake up early to see the sunrise which illuminated the sea a beautiful pink before it rose in the sky.         

The hammocks on the grass were used to the full by Meera who enjoyed reading her novels on it. Kuppu’s desire to be photographed on one was fulfilled too although his was an awkward climb into it.

The tidal walks were quite an experience. The sea was very shallow and during low tide the water receded quite a bit from the shore. We could see the sand stones and dead corals (rocks) which disappear during hightide.  The hotel would display the sunrise/sunset/high tide/low tide information at the desk with warning flags alerting the people about tide heights. At low tide (normally around 12PM) we could venture quite a distance into the sea. All the stones, covered by the waters at high tide would be exposed and it would be fun wading and sploshing. Meera could venture farther and faster than any of us. Walking on the seabed was an out-of-this world experience.

The restaurant (as well as the rest of the resort) is built on stilts, and the lush vegetation around it was a good hiding and roosting place for birds. Meera looked forward to the breakfast and lunch spreads especially if it was a buffet. She enjoyed seeing, picking and choosing her food.  At times we also went across the road to a restaurant which boasted of, rightly so, excellent cuisine. The service was prompt and we had no complaints, except perhaps for the absence of ACs.

The sunset cruise we took was another memorable experience. We were gingerly lowered into the boat and then life jacketed. The boat took off and the vast expanse of the sea behind us presented a grand picture. The boat almost divided the sea with its white spray and foam. We were able to see coral reefs in the water. We passed Elephant Island, popular for water sports, and Turtle Island before we stopped at the point from where we could get the best view of the majestic sinking sun. The anchor is not thrown for fear of damaging the reefs, buoys are used as an anchor point for the boat. What a view it was from our balcony seats! The dramatic pink and red hues in the blue sky and then the sun dipping into the sea – we savoured the moments. 

The return was fast, furious and thrilling. No wonder we had to fasten our loosened life jackets on the way back. As we disembarked, we heard there was a fire in one of the boats behind us. There was hectic activity and emergency units – police vans, fire engines, and ambulances – all arrived in a jiffy for the rescue operation.

The mangrove walk was another high point of our stay. We had to drive out to the Taj Exotica resort, supposed to be one of the most expensive resorts – far from the madding crowd and exotic, as the name suggests – which had the mangroves behind the hotel itself. Mangrove forests run all along the coastline and form a good barrier of vegetation but for our mangrove walk our guide decided on the mangroves behind the Taj Exotica. Viraj (our guide) was young, well-informed and passionate about probing nature’s wonders. He had a bagful of interesting facts about the forest.  Walking carefully over scattered stones, avoiding tree roots stretching on the ground and braving the balmy heat, we hung on to his words. He showed us spider webs (of a rare kind of spider), resembling a house and its rooms and the female spider which has the upper hand, can retire to the “bedroom” as and when she desires.  We saw trees more than 200 years old and saw umpteen number of crab holes. We learnt that trees communicate with one another through their roots especially when a “disaster” is imminent. The birds and other creatures on the trees also get the warning signal and take necessary steps. All in all, it was a precarious yet precious walk. 

Our guide then led us from the dense mangrove into light – the Radhanagar beach. Recognized as the best beach in Asia by Time magazine in the year 2004, it is still regarded as one of the best beaches in the world and boasts a Blue Flag certification (a prestigious award to state the cleanliness and eco-friendliness of beaches). It is an enormous wide, clean beach, running alongside the wide blue sea.  A large part of the beach was dotted with crab holes and the designs around these holes made by balls of sand by male crabs to attract the females were amazingly intricate.  Awesome work, we agreed, of the ardent, artistic wooers. No one was complaining. It was a spectacular finale to the mangrove walk.

Five out of our party of seven went snorkeling. It doesn’t need a genius to guess who the two who refused the adventure were. Our snorkelers had to fill out papers, sign in a lot of places to exclude any kind of risk to the organizers. We could see them poring over the papers and doing their homework at breakfast time. It was all worth their while because they had a whale of a time under water seeing fishes, coral reefs and snakes. Meera was a bundle of delight when she came back and said “It’s easy and fun, Pati. You and Thatha should come next time”. Those intimidated by snorkeling can have vicarious pleasure in glass bottomed boats or submarine type of boats with portholes to look at marine life.

The resort was readying itself for Christmas when we left. Decorations were in full swing and the place took on a colourful and festive appearance.

Leaving the lovely resort and the lush environs was not easy but pack we did and readied to reach Port Blair. The ferry back, barring tumultuous waves in a few spots, was more comfortable.

The pristine beauty of the place, the lovely beaches, evergreen tropical forests and activities spread over land and water, the shimmering sunrise, the ethereal sunset, the lush vegetation, our exciting activities – all these made our holiday memorable. The staff at the resort were very polite and helpful. Though tourism is the major industry, the islands are conserved by keeping tourists away from certain touristic activities and protecting the lush magnificence and marine life special to this place.

Our week-long stay taught us many lessons – the most important being modernization or development does not mean discarding or crushing the old out of existence. Andaman Islands thrives and looks ahead but not without respecting the feelings of the indigenous tribes and letting them live their way – not without protecting the endemic flora and fauna by banning tourists from any activities that would endanger the precious sea and land gems. Also, the naval presence and the island administration ensures that rules are followed strictly. In Havelock, the key to its popularity fell into our laps.

Chettinad

2021 had put paid to our Golden Wedding Anniversary plans so we were gifted a 2022 holiday in Chettinad. Many must have wondered ‘Why Chettinad?’ I think any place in India deserves a question as its answer ‘Why Not?’

We landed in Madurai and had a 2-hour car drive ahead of us. And would you believe? We were able to get the services of the same driver Karthick who had taken us to the South India temples on our temple tour. He was as voluble as before and as full of spicy stories of politicians and celebrities. We did not have to turn on the car radio at all!

Comprising 75 villages, the largest being Karaikudi, Chettinad had reached a high level of affluence and prosperity because of the Chettiars who were very enterprising merchants, trading with many South East Asian countries, bringing back untold wealth (and material like wood, steel etc.). The money was used in importing exquisite Belgian glass, sturdy Birmingham steel, smooth Italian marble, beautifully designed Japanese tiles, solid Burma teak, all of which were used in the mansions they built and owned.

Patronized by the Cholas and then the Pandyas, the Chettiar merchants would be on seas for lengthy periods during which time their womenfolk and children would take care of the property. They were also very successful money-lenders and bankers.

However, the post-war scenario was not very conducive to their maritime trade. They lost their monopoly in that field, fell on bad days, and could not maintain their lavish lifestyle. They relocated to other cities and abroad (especially Singapore) but would always return to their multi-storied mansions and large families for functions and religious festivals.

Today, in the lanes of the villages, we can still see the earlier elegance and grandeur in the mansions. Granted, many are in dilapidated condition (but still standing), some are in the hands of caretakers, some managed by Chettiar trusts to keep their old charm intact while others have been converted into hotels.

We stayed in one such heritage hotel ‘Visalam’, a mansion bequeathed by its Chettiar owner to his daughter Visalakshi. This is a celebrated residence. Built almost a century ago, it retains the gleaming floors and polished windows and doors. Tiles and fabrics from local small industries and handloom weavers continue to be used here. Like all other mansions, this one too had the traditional ‘old is gold’ touch; the large courtyard (double or triple storeyed) surrounded by pillars on a higher level and with rooms all around; the imposing façade, the high ceilings, the banquet hall, simple and inviting with its floor seating arrangement.

You could sense something warm and calming about the place. Consisting of only 15 rooms (huge and comfortable), there was no fear or risk of people breathing down each others necks. There was a coffee hall with an old radio, pagade, pallanghuzi and other games but we preferred to sip on our morning coffee on the lawns outside. The shady mango tree with small mangoes at an unreachable height was an attention seeker. A family of hens and chicks would follow one another looking for insects in the grass and sometimes just scurrying across it (they must have heard it’s good to walk on grass). A rooster also was part of the animal world but it never seemed to wake up early enough to wake up others. We heard an owl once in the evening, but it must have realized it mistimed its presence and its hooting was not heard again. 

Lovely bougainvillea covered the walls, antique chairs and a cart from the bygone days amused us. A lady would draw beautiful kolam every morning without fail – a tradition dear to us. We enjoyed these simple pleasures in this serene place. Neither flamboyant nor overstated, the heritage house, an enduring and endearing symbol of paternal love, seemed to bask in its own soft radiance.

A short walk outside our hotel took us to the streets / lanes that were witnesses to the lavish lives of the Chettiars. The mansions were awesome, standing cheek by jowl, most of them extending from one end of the street to the other with boxed windows and balconies jutting out onto the street. We counted 50 windows on one side of one mansion. Almost all the mansions had bright, colourful facades with Goddess Laxmi seated above the entrance arch. The colours of the sculptures of the Goddess and other Gods were fascinating. Ganesha, Rama, Seetha, Laxmana, Hanuman also found pride of place at the entrance arch.

As we walked on, at sunset time at one spot we saw a multitude of birds – parrots, bulbuls, crows, screeching, desperately flying from one tree to another, creating an unearthly cacophony. Looking for a resting place for the night or just enjoying the clamour, we didn’t know, but it was nature at its noisiest.

We saw the mansion where the movie “Kandukondain Kandukondain” was shot. An awesome construction, we could only see it from the outside as it is closed to the public. The ornate balconies, the polished pillars, the stained-glass windows, everything was an absolute spectacle. 

We also entered a mansion whose old lady caretaker was happy to have someone to talk to because we could see her husband lolling on his easy chair. More importantly, we think she wanted to proudly show off the palatial house she was lovingly tending. The old style kitchen with a row of “chulhas”, and doorways made of teak wood with intricate designs left us gasping. She showed one particular pattern on the door which she claimed would be found in no other mansion. That is why, though she made us pose in front of the door for a photo, she moved us this way and that and made sure we did not block the exquisite work on wood.

In all these places, the resplendent, imposing facades, the tall, polished, beautifully carved columns, the courtyard with provision for rainwater to flow out, the huge kitchens, banquet halls and wedding halls, the work on wood and granite were marvellous – it was impossible to even imagine how skilful, patient and creative the craftsmen of yore must have been.

We had 2 other options with regard to our stay – a luxurious mansion turned hotel “Chidambara Vilas” and a more modern “Bangala”. But we decided on the CGH Earth Visalam because we had experienced the warmth and cosiness of CGH Earth before in Kerala and Tamil Nadu (there is still loyalty left in the world). So that we were not entirely deprived of the options not taken, we went there for lunch on two different days.

Chidambara Vilas is a magnificent mansion with its luxurious interiors. What we saw left us spellbound. The lunch was served on traditional banana leaves in their dining room. While Visalam is in the middle of the village Kanadukathan, Chidambara Vilas was on the “outskirts”.

Bangala had its mansion façade but was a sprawling green place inside, more like a colonial club. The food here is to “live for”. The taste of the made-in-the-hotel ice cream (mango and vanilla) still lingers. Bangala has won many awards for its culinary creations. The lip-smacking recipes have been passed down from one generation to another in this family run hotel.

We visited the Athangudi palace (one open to the public at a price) located in the village by that name. The entrance itself mesmerised us with its variety of tiles on floor, walls, and ceiling, bright arches, doors made of Burma teak wood, floors of Italian marble, single stone granite pillars, inner ceilings made of teak wood, beautiful sculptures, the hall with an awesome ceiling with a central design in gold of Meenakshi’s kalyanam.

People called it the “imported house” because of the imported fixtures and interiors. Lord Krishna’s story is painted on all the arches of windows. The Belgian mirrors were covered, perhaps to protect it from the continuous footfall. The delicate lattice work on the edges of the wooden arches covering must be seen to be believed. A special mixture of limestone used on the walls gives it a soft appearance and keeps the place cool. The old style furniture, stained glass panes on ventilators, extensive verandas give the place a quaint, exotic look. 

We also visited one of the many small scale Athangudi tile making factories. The beautifully patterned tiles made with local cement and colour powders are soaked in water for 3 days and then sundried for many days. The beautiful patterns help in making the magnificent villas look even more splendid. These tiles have made a name for themselves in the international market also.

Who can think of leaving a South Indian city without seeing its temples? Especially if they are ancient temples with an aura of their own.

On our wedding anniversary, we first went to a very well-known Thirumayam Vishnu temple. Unfortunately that day there was a death in the fort behind the temple hence it was closed. We decided we’d go again in the evening. And Lo and Behold it was open then.

This ancient 9^th century cave temple (one of the 108 divya desams) has two famous rock cut shrines. One of the presiding deities, Sathyamurthy, is a 7 foot idol, standing tall and divine along with His consorts. In the adjoining sanctum, the sculpture of Vishnu is in a sleeping position, reclining on the Seshanaga who is believed to be a protective force and who burns the asuras who planned to kidnap Bhoodevi and Sreedevi. Their sculptures are on the chest and near the feet of the Lord, which is where they are supposed to have hidden themselves. Following this legend, the sculpted Adisesha is shown with flames emanating from it – one hand of Lord Vishnu seems to be resting on Adisesha, calming it.

The anantasayi Vishnu of this temple is supposed to be only second in importance to the one in Srirangam. The idol occupies the entire rear wall in the garbha gudi and is surrounded by various other celestial figures. There are also individual sannadhis for Lord Narsimha, Andal Devi, Garuda. The stone carved sculptures are breath taking. An octagonal tank with 108 steps distributed over the 8 sides is part of the temple precincts.

A Shiva temple is located in the same complex, a few meters away. The sanctum sanctorum has a Shiva Lingam sculpted from the rock of the cave itself. Inside, it was profusely hot and humid and all of us were almost drenched in sweat. But the young priest performed the puja with such sincerity and faith that we really felt blessed.

Hewn from the same rock, the Shiva and Vishnu temples are said to be dedicated to the unity of Vaishnavism and Shaivism especially at the time when each was vying for supremacy. A granite wall surrounds the temple enclosing all its shrines as if reiterating the oneness of the Gods.

The rock-cut Vinayaka temple we visited was teeming with humanity because of the kumbhabhishekam that was being performed. People were standing in quite a disciplined manner to see the deity. We only had a long-distance view and were planning an exit when a gentleman showed us another way to reach the diety. A Chettiar had come for darshan so there was a bit of delay. What impressed us was that everyone in all the queues was given a chance to see the deity (covered in gold) from close quarters and take aarathi.

The Shiva temple close by was serene and quiet. The paintings on the ceilings had an interesting feature – there were angels with tilaks and also British soldiers. The sculptures of the 63 nayanmars, side by side, in a long line was another majestic sight.

We had heard of one particular temple with terracotta horses and set out to visit it. We initially went to a temple with awe inspiring huge terracotta horses. An NRI family, whose kula devata was the deity there was waiting for the priest and we realized that we were not at the temple we were looking for. Nevertheless we went looking around. Ashta Lakshmi sculptures adorned the inner walls and we came to a small area where we saw different lengths of sacrificial chopping swords ensconced in their niches. The local Gods are apparently appeased and honoured with the sacrifice of roosters and goats.

We got to the temple we were looking for – a beautiful village shrine dedicated to Ayyanar. The sculpted guardians of the village stand tall and fierce in front of the temple. It is a very open, clean and airy temple. It is very unique in that there is a vibrant array of terracotta horses, old and new, along the outer wall of the temple. It is believed that the village deity (the grama devatha) protects his village(s) by riding around them on a white horse. Every year, on a particular festival day in March, devotees offer pretty clay horses to their lord as a gesture of gratitude. Stunning ceilings seem to be a hallmark of temples here. The colourful façade enhances the radiance of the temple.

There is a hitherto unseen coloured sculpture on the entrance wall called Adhyanath Prabhu. It is half Ganesha and half Hanuman. The concept is itself so different. The villagers say that the Ayyappa temple has evolved from the Ayyannar temple. They have the same set of observances too. While Ashwin and Kuppu went in, we were planning to follow them. As we moved, there was a loud “NO” from an eagle eyed old lady, “You can’t go there”. So we drew back. An elderly couple saw us looking helpless and decided to help us by drawing a Laxman Rekha for Aruna. The gentleman then turned to me and asked “Are you over 60? Then you can go in”. I felt elated about the compliment – I didn’t look 60+. Wow!

As we continued to stand there, my entire face suffused in pride, another couple came, the gentleman redrew the line of control for Aruna but said, pointing to me, “Paati can go in”. That elation was short-lived and balloon like, deflated so soon! That Wow soon turned to Ouch!

The antique market is a couple of lanes with shops on either side. One shop exclusively had bronze and brass idols of all Gods, another had the pillars that would be found in wealthy homes. Copper and bronze cookware shone from some stores and ceramic objects were displayed proudly in some. These must have been sold off by the owners when they could no longer afford to retain them. They were priceless memorabilia. Some streets also have doors and other furniture on the pavement, which have perhaps outlived their use and will be revamped and sold. It is painful to see the fall of some of the hitherto prosperous families.

We felt a bit saddened at the thought of leaving our hotel and Chettinad after the brief but unforgettable holiday. But then, Goodbyes are always laced with sadness. It was the same with us. Perhaps we were a bit relieved to be leaving the hot, humid conditions behind us but we were carrying a lot of memories of centuries gone by. Karaikudi and Athangudi will be part of our wonderful Chettinad experience.

Hampi Trip

 

Our first outing after almost 2 years of home stay – Hampi it was, unanimously chosen because of its intriguing history, long golden era and short name?!

The Innova which took us to Hampi from the Bangalore airport was very comfortable – one, due to the vaahan chaalak and two, due to the bucket seats which veered our conversation towards bucket lists and that was fun.

“Our” resort was built on the lines of the nearby Kamalapura Palace (now no more) and exuded grandeur and grace. The suite boasted of a jacuzzi, a king+queen sized bed, a large balcony and myriad seating areas. The sitout cum balcony overlooked the other more expansive accommodation on one side, the library, spa and a cute corner store on the other side and the absolutely dense trees in front. The expansive sky glowed in its beauty at sunrise and sunset. The resort was home to a lush variety of trees and an astounding variety of birds – 200 and more species we were told. On our morning walks around the resort, we would hear owls, egrets, bulbuls, parakeets, peacocks and many more avians hidden in the luxuriant foliage but found (ferreted) out by the two bird lovers in the family and their camera.

The evening we reached, we decided to spend some time at a (his)tory telling session – a daily ritual here. A local knowledgeable speaker would enlighten his audience (resorteers) about the Vijaynagar empire and also feel bold enough to elicit questions and doubts. He was doing a good job but hadn’t bargained for Kuppu who himself was a trove of historical facts and who suddenly had everyone’s ear for a while with his articulate narration. Of course, he didn’t steal the speaker’s thunder – he created some thunder of his own.

Hampi’s connection with Ramayana is well known. This region is believed to be Kishkinda, the forest domain of monkeys (they are seen in large groups even today). Specific locations also lend credence to this belief.

The 1^st Rama temple - Malyavanta Raghunatha temple we went to was unique in more ways than one. This temple is a tribute to Lord Rama and Ramayana. The sanctuary of the main temple abuts a rock carved with a scene showing Rama, Sita, Lakshmana and Hanuman.

The rock protrudes above the roof of the temple where it is topped by a partly reconstructed tower. We were pleasantly surprised that we could drive right up to the entrance of the temple atop the Malyavanta hill. Unlike most temples in India, this temple is open day and night. We entered to the meditative chants of 2 priests reciting the Ram Charith Manas and learnt that this akhanda parayanam has been going on 24 / 7, 365 days for a decade now. When one priest gets up, another one immediately takes his place – we saw this happen when we were there. The pujari explained in chaste Hindi that about 500 pilgrims going from Ayodhya to Sri Lanka (on a yearly pilgrimage) would pass through Hampi and seeing the temple in a state of disrepair, some of them decided to stay back and sanctify it with their devotion. This soulful, uplifting recitation is in Gujarati and Hindi. 

The sculptures of Sita, Rama, Lakshmana and Hanuman are carved out of a single boulder and are depicted in a sitting position without any weapons. Rama is in a meditative pose and Hanuman instead of folded hands is seen with outstretched hands as if showing something to Rama. Rama is supposed to have stayed here for 4 months in the rainy season, waiting for the rains to subside to continue his search for Sita. This is a functioning temple. We learn that this temple is mostly overlooked by travelers. My mouth forms a big WHY?

From a small doorway in the wall behind the temple, we went up the Malyavanta hill. This hill has round shaped boulders and many natural caves and rock shelters. It is believed that while Rama, in exile, was wandering in this region, he performed obsequies to his father Dasaratha and Lakshmana was able to get the required water for the rituals by splitting the stone with his arrow. 

Another breathtaking temple of Rama we visited was the Hazara Rama temple. Hazara is the only temple situated in the core zone of the royal enclosure. It is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in his aspect as Rama. The temple has some of the most exquisite carvings ever seen anywhere. It is outstanding for both the subject and the quality of its craftsmanship. The outer face of the compound walls depict day-to-day lives, processions of elephants, horses, soldiers, dancing girls and men and women going about their work. The outer walls of the temple depict on their panels, we are told, 108 scenes from the Ramayana, carved in 3 tiers, that should seen from left to right and bottom to top.

The pictorial narration begins with Valmiki telling the story and ends with the triumphant coronation of Rama at Ayodhya. The carvings are in excellence condition. We could say we saw cultural profusion at its finest here. Our guide stated that anybody who perambulates thrice around the temple, taking in the paneled narration, will understand the entire Ramayana.

The sanctuary, however, is empty except for a pedestal as the sculpted figures of Rama, Sita and Lakshmana have disappeared. In a nearby hall, on one of the black granite pillars, the sculptor’s imagined image of the deities is engraved.

Outside this temple, as in some others, one can see remnants of a colonnade of mandapas on either side of the pathway. These point to the ancient bustling market that once existed.

The much talked about monolithic sculpture of Lord Lakshmi Narasimha lives up to the awe it has created. It is an outstanding work of sculptured art, about 6.5 meters tall and hewn out of a massive boulder. Seated on the coils of the Sesha with the hood above the head of the deity, Narasimha is seated in padmasana with a yogapattika. The image of Lakshmi seated over his left lap is mutilated. Only the left arm can be seen. The sculpture seems to reiterate the fact of our “smallness” in the presence of God and Nature.

A few meters away, a large monolithic Sivalinga captures our attention. The lower part remains in water throughout the year, the source being a small canal drawn from Tungabhadra river. The superstructure though, is all but dilapidated. The Badavalinga temple, as it is called, has a 3 meter high large Sivalinga carved out of 1 rock. The pedestal remains in a bed of water with a small damaged shrine. Legend has it that it was commissioned by a poor woman, hence the name.

The Vittala temple, which also takes pride of place in temple visits here, is dedicated to Vishnu, Vittala being his other name. In front of the temple is the famous ratha or stone chariot with the Garuda shrine. 

The chariot originally had stone horses drawing it but at present elephants cover up for the destruction of the horses. Only the horses’ tails survive to tell the tale. The tail and part of legs still remain mute spectators of the damage caused by the Bahmani rulers.  The two other stone chariots are in Puri and Mahabalipuram. The Ratha in Hampi was inspired by the one in the Konark sun temple. This famous Ratha can also be seen on the 50/- note. The large Ranga Mandapa, a dance hall, close by is well known for its 56 musical pillars known as SaReGaMa pillars attributed to the musical notes emerging out of them when gently tapped. Our guide did not want to deny us the melodic experience, so tap he did. It really must have been music to the ears in an earlier era.

The Hemakunta hill will be etched in my memory for a long time. The large Virupakhsa temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is located at the bottom of the hill on the other side, is motorable and can be reached easily. But our guide pooh-poohed the idle idea and tempted us by saying that the view from the hill that slopes down to the temple is worth the effort. That it was.

Climbing and descending the sloping shelf of granite with uneven, sometimes steep steps and broken slabs required not only a herculean effort on my part but also the support of 6 pairs of hands (by turns, please), not forgetting the hand of God. Now it all seems slightly distant but it was strenuous exercise then, to be sure. The view from the hill was remarkable. Distant rock formations, about 30 temples on a nearby hill and the Tungabhadra river in the distance.

The imposing tower of the gopura of the Virupaksha temple rises more than 50 meters above the street. We could see it beckoning us as we struggled and slithered down the hill. The deity in the temple is represented as a Mukha Linga, with an embossed brass face mask. Pujas and rituals take place here regularly. It is a functioning temple as is the 1^st Rama temple we visited. There is a small shrine of Pampa Devi (Parvathi) too. Shiva is sometimes called Pampapathi. The open mandapa of the main temple is astounding. 

The interior of the mandapa is a spacious open hall with a ceiling that is entirely covered with splendid paintings. Divided into panels portraying scenes from Ramayana, Shiva’s life and touching slightly upon Mahabharatha, the colours of the paintings are still quite intense and bright.

We couldn’t have left the temple without being blessed by Lakshmi, the temple elephant. As we were climbing the steps, we heard another guide advise, tongue in cheek “if you don’t have money (to get the blessings) give your UPI ID with the password”. Helpful, indeed. 

We saw 2 Ganesha monuments that had unusual names. A plain pillared mandapa houses a huge monolithic (a word that describes almost all monuments here – shows the skill and brilliance of the sculptors of those days) sculpture of Ganesha sitting on a pedestal. The 4 armed, 2.5 meter tall Ganesha is also known as the mustard seed Ganesha (Sasive Kalu, we were told, in the Kannada language). If the image is seen from the back and if you use a bit of your imagination, you’ll visualize Ganesha seated on the lap of his mother, an almost inconspicuous Parvathi. The image, it is said, was made by merchants who had profited immensely from the sale of mustard seeds. Hence the name. The Kadale Kalu monolithic Ganesha is 4.5 meters tall and carved out of a huge boulder. The deity has a sanctum built around it with an elegant, pillared mandapa.

In the Royal Enclosure (structures associated with the royal family), there are damaged structures that as elsewhere speak f the vandalism that occurred and also vestiges that still echo stories of a remarkable bygone era. The Queen’s palace is now a mere terraced platform which, they say, formed the basement. It’s an excavated palace structure of which only the basement, floor and lower portions survive. 3 watchtowers with balconies (only one in a mildly good condition) must have provided security to the royal ladies. The huge compound also houses a two storeyed Lotus Mahal, so called because of the gopuras which appear like inverted lotuses. One of the best- preserved structures, this domed pavilion with its arched openings and balconies must have served as a pleasure/entertainment area. It is now closed to the public. The Queens’ bath is a large, square structure with an ornate interior. Around the bath are beautifully decorative balconies projecting into the well and still in good condition. An arcaded corridor roofed with ornate vaults of different designs runs around the square pool – one can imagine how it must have been in its heyday.

The most imposing courtly structure here are the elephants’ stables. The stables comprise a long line of eleven chambers each of which, it is said, could accommodate an elephant. The arched doorways make for an interesting façade. The central chamber housed the King’s elephant and the raised structure above it must have been used by musicians. Another structure overlooking this parade ground is almost as impressive as these stables. An elevated gallery could have served as a grandstand from which to enjoy the activities on the ground below (mainly martial sports) and not as guard’s quarters as has been suggested by some, including our guide.

A quadrangular enclosure, close to the Hazara Rama temple, is by far the largest in the royal center. Dominating this area stands a square, multistage granite platform. On the shallow reliefs, royal activities are depicted. The platform is popularly believed to have been the place from where the King addressed people and also participated in the celebrations of the Dasara festival. Hence the name Mahanavami dibba .We were also privy to a secret chamber – a few steps which led to an underground room where confidential matters must have been discussed. A spacious plaza near the Zenana enclosure was probably used as a parade ground for troops and animals. 

A large step-well, still in fairly decent condition, makes us slow down and admire it.

We were almost nearing the end of our holiday. We visited Anegondi, a quaint village, the 1^st capital of the Vijaynagar Empire on the banks of the Tungabhadra. The river is amazingly clear here. I recall what a tourist had said “Snan karna hai tho Ganga mein snan karo, pani peena hai tho Tungabhadra ka piyo”. It was a beautiful, refreshing sight. After a brief tussle with rocks and steps we came to a cave formed by 2 mammoth boulders. Aruna entered the cool cave where, we were told, Rama meditated and also vanquished Vali on the other side of the river. 

We drove around this well-preserved village which also serves as a residence of a local line of Rajas who claim descent from the Vijayanagar emperors. Many traditional houses with wooden pillars and mud-clad walls and flat, plastered roofs have been preserved. Motoring down the narrow lanes of the village was a rugged but delightful experience.

A rocky climb and a little walk later, we could see Pampa Sarovar and Durga temple at a distance. But we were deterred by a huge family of monkeys on trees, cars and ground. Though a Hanuman devotee, harmless simians also scare me. 

We reserved the last day for the Tungabhadra dam. The car was not allowed in, so we decided to walk the 2 miles or so to the dam. The slight incline on the deserted road was welcome. We didn’t huff and puff at all. Only a few gates of the dam were open but the gushing of white waters was a spectacular sight, though it was a long distance view. The bus that was standing there refused us because only those who went up in it could go down. The downward walk was easier and exhilarating with the trees breezing us on. We must have saved a few rupees (bus fare) but what gave us more joy was that we had burnt a few calories (which didn’t stay burnt in me for long).

We were also treated to a special car drive before we left. Our lady chauffer (doubles up as the resort’s concierge) took us for a spin in the resort premises. The refurbished ambassador car stands in the porch of the resort and any of the resorteers can have a ride. Just before we left the resort, we were encouraged by the resort lady to enjoy the topless experience. We had fun and giggled like children all the way till our Innova picked us up near the gate. 

I cannot say I’ve written the last world till I have spoken about the spectacular landscape. We cannot but notice the remarkable scenery in this part. Granite boulders dominate the landscape as hills, long ridges or piles of rocks haphazardly strewn about. Rounded boulders, detached boulders, some perched precariously as if about to roll over – have provided for centuries an inexhaustible supply of building materials, although our guide said the stones are protected over a 10 kilometer radius.

Strikingly beautiful and rugged boulders form continuous hills on both sides of the road – they are packed closely together or are seen one above the other. The massive and unique rocky appearance of the terrain hemmed in by granite peaks should be seen to be believed. These, interspersed with paddy fields, sugarcane and banana fields in some places, create a contrasting harsh and cool pattern.

As we traveled, at one place on the side of the road, we could see 2 huge boulders clinging to each other, called Akka Thangiyara gundu or sisters’ stone. It is a popular landmark of Hampi. Our guide had his personal take on this – he said that the 2 sisters were talking ill of the place and of the ruins and the spirit of Hampi heard them, and angered, turned them into stones. Turning back as we drove he told us, tongue in cheek, not to say negative things about Hampi. 

The wonderful confluence of religion, mythology, history and landscape in Hampi made our visit an awe-inspiring one. Notwithstanding the damage and destruction wrought on the once glorious monuments, we were able to appreciate the legacy surviving in the ruins and in untouched structures which retained their erstwhile grandeur.