Galle

 Our trip to Sri Lanka was not a celebratory event. It was just a short getaway to relax, chill and take in a few sights and sounds.

We landed in Colombo where our resort guide / driver joined us. He asked us to pose with garlands on our necks with “Welcome to Sri Lanka” in the background. I felt elated thinking this was an honour done only to us but later saw that all tourists had their pictures taken there. The balloon burst.

The drive to Galle, our only destination on the island country was picturesque and exhilarating. The greenery on both sides was refreshing. The trees seemed to be speeding their leafy arms in welcome. The rocky hills on one side were hewn to make space for the road. In some places on the hill, the hewn areas were covered with grass as if in an attempt to conceal the cuts and bruises.

A majestic gate opened out into our beautiful resort hotel. Once we negotiated the steps, the reception area looked out onto a lawn and the swirling waters of the ocean, shimmering in the noon sun. 

Our rooms were awesome and very comfortable. Close the front door, slide open the back door and we were a few steps away from the sea. The white frothy waves seemed to be dancing and jumping with joy, gaining more momentum and surf as it neared the coastline, hugging other frothy lines, making a stark contrast with the unchanging horizon. A few steps down and we’d be walking pm the sands of the beach. The beach side location of this property gave it a special aura.

It was quite a sight, seeing locals perched on stilts and fishing. Stilt fishing is peculiar to Sri Lanka and one wondered how they could retain their balance on the seemingly precarious support. It does require incredible skill. We saw a foreign tourist trying to ape the fishing exercise and it was funnily ungainly.

Galle is almost in the lowest South West corner of Sri Lanka. Its port and position made it perfect for spice trade and for successive invasions – first by the Portuguese, followed by the Dutch and then the British. There’s an unconfirmed story about the name Galle. When the Portuguese came to this part, they heard a rooster crow and named the place Galled, the Portuguese word for rooster.

Whenever we went by road, the sea seemed to be accompanying us. It was an experience like no there. The historic Galle fort is a UNESCO world heritage with architecture reflecting Portuguese, Dutch and British colonial rule. A tourist town, Galle has innumerable beach hotels and resorts.

The Galle fort is a fortified city by itself. Tall and clothed in white, the Lighthouse is a landmark standing on the fort’s south eastern tip and offers panoramic views of the ocean. The fort walls are said to have protected the city for centuries from invaders and nature’s fury. Walking along the top of the stone ramparts can be an adventure in itself – a charming one at that. The ramparts, the lighthouse, the cannons all reminders of a bygone era.

The fort area is quaint and modern. The cobblestone alleyways are a shopper’s and foodie’s delight. Cafes, restaurants, boutiques make it a very attractive place. In the olden days Sri Lanka was called “Ratna Dweepa” – an island of gems. Galle is a hub of jewelry and gem stones too for those who like to dig into their purses.

There are homestays and colonial guest-houses in the old fort area. Churches and mosques (in the fort neighbourhood) point to different religions existing together.

The sprawling Dutch hospital, now turned into a shopping mall, has cafes and boutiques and is always bustling with curious tourists. We walked all over the fort city, ate there and had gelato ice cream at a small, cute shop, which had a delicious range of flavours. How delightful to stand on the street and dig into ice cream with no vehicles honking away.

As we traveled, we saw a splendid statue of Buddha on the side of the road. We were told that it was a memorial for the 2004 tsunami victims. Galle was very badly hit and experienced the worst natural disaster in recorded history. Despite the widespread wreckage and loss of lives, Buddha’s image here seems to impart serenity and a positive message. Said to have been donated by a Japanese artist, it faces the sea with the right hand raised in a gesture of pacifying obstacles. Even along Galle road, the damage to infrastructure is seen including in the Galle cricket stadium. The historic walls provided some protection but the force of the tsunami breached them.

It was drizzling but we kept our date with a visit to a Tea plantation. The gentleman who was to be our guide saw to it that we had our umbrellas over our heads. As we walked along gingerly, he pointed out the leaves used for various teas. We stopped for a bit at their office and were offered oolong tea and yummy chocolate cake. There was just another couple with us, hence it was quite a private tour.

We went to the factory where the process from leaves to end product was shown on machines which were over 100 years old. This tea estate was famous for its Virgin white tea, so called because the leaves were not touched by hand. We also had a tea tasting session. A variety of tea were kept in containers and each of us was given a small cup and spoon to taste the teas. It was a mind-boggling array of teas – maybe about 40 – A&A were able to tell the difference between one tea and another but to us, everything tasted the same. In the same room, there were shelves arranged with tea boxes – various kinds of tea powder and tea bags to cater to all tastes.

The plantation was very informative about the tea leaf picking process and the routine thereafter.

The turtle hatchery was a revelation. It’s a fully fledged hatchery and rehabilitation center with dedicated teams. The aim is to conserve some of the endangered species of turtles. It was sad to see turtles with parts of their bodies missing because of injuries or attacks by stronger sea creatures. This is a state of art rescue center complete with water tanks to care for newborn turtles along with adults rescued from the sea. This was care and conservation in action.

Little mounds of sand piled neatly between one another aroused our curiosity. They were for the turtles to lay eggs. We were able to see Olive Ridley turtles, leatherback turtles, logger head turtles and green turtles. A sanctuary in the truest sense of the word.

Next on the itinerary was a boat ride on the Madu river. We had never seen such lush and pristine mangrove forests before. There are around 64 islands in this river, including a tiny speck housing a deserted shrine to one having 250 families.

We proceeded to the Cinnamon island from under long foot overbridges made to facilitate movement of the families living here to the mainland. We had to lower our heads to an awkward angle in order to avoid a beheading. Even going through the mangroves tested our “going into a horizontal position” alacrity. The island is known for housing an aromatic cinnamon plantation, ranked as the best quality in the world. We were exposed to the process of harvesting, peeling, oiling and rolling of cinnamon sticks. Many families are involved in this “fragrant” work. The island has cinnamon trees sprawling over acres of land. Scraping the bark and shade drying it for weeks to make cinnamon powder, oil and sticks requires a lot of patience. Buying these off the shelves is easy but putting them there is tough.

One activity the island offers is to stick your feet into a shallow water hole filled to the brim with fish that get to nibble on your feet lightly. A&A sat down for it. Ticklish and amusing was their verdict.

Wherever we drove in Galle, we saw fishermen throwing their nets in the sea, catching fish – and then shacks with fresh fish laid out for selling and fish hanging on strings for drying. Coconuts are also aplenty. Not only is the food made tastier with it, it is also used in beverages and ice creams. The shell is also used for various decorative and daily use articles.

We also saw a bit of Ramayana unfold itself. Just a short drive from Galle is the Rumassala mountain. The drive up the hill reminded me of Kodaikanal but this was sans the hairpin bends and shorter. We reached the top and saw a beautiful white pagoda and beyond that, breathtaking views of the ocean. The place was the site for a Hindu shrine too. Legend has it that when Hanuman was carrying the entire mountain as he could not identify Sanjivani, a chunk from it fell here. So it is a place of reverence for Hanuman. There is a huge image of Hanuman in the temple, shown carrying the mountain in his hands.

Our short but sweet holiday was over – but the beautiful city of Galle, the playful ocean, the “service with a smile” attitude of the staff, be it in the dining room or room service or the reception, the hospitality par excellence will tug at our hearts everytime we think of Sri Lanka.

This blog is in a small way, a tribute to the resilience of Sri Lankans during and after every calamity and in memory of those who lost their lives in 2004 and more recently in November 2025.

London

 

I was entering the elegant eighties and a holiday planned by my children seemed like a perfect getaway.

Arjun and family met us in London from Berkeley even as we flew there from Hyderabad. I was filled with trepidation and apprehension regarding the flight especially after the recent Dreamliner’s horrific nightmare. But these fears were assuaged with the pilot’s smooth take off and their silken landing.

Our AirBnB in London was out of this world. Roomy, with cosy furniture, a long reclining sofa, a longer dining table with stove and seating for a dozen people, 3 large bedrooms and a not-so-empty larder. A lovely cupboard with ‘spirit’ed bottles – alas, all empty, arranged neatly greeted us as we entered our abode. Bottles, bottles everywhere, not a drop to drink, some would say. The massive fridge, the well-gadgeted kitchen made our stay very comfortable. We were part of the Wimbledon district but the tennis courts were out of our reach.

The children scoured the neighbourhood for eateries and found we were well equipped even for emergencies.

There was a planned itinerary but nothing so rigid that we couldn’t deviate from it. Well known tourist places co-existed with those that would be our own experiences.

From day 1 we were ready and raring to go. We were blissfully unaware of the number of miles we would be walking, the number of steps we would be ascending and descending and the crowds we would be encountering – all this in the hot English summer which greeted us as we left the hot Indian summer behind us.

The English love to walk and we decided to emulate them in their land.  Walking tours with specific themes and learned guides are popular here. Our first 2 hour walk dealt with the English elite and lower classes as exemplified by Nottinghill and Nottingdale. It was arduous but interesting. Our lady guide’s perspective on piggeries and potteries of the late 18^th century in the worst slums of those days almost made us cover our noses! The slums were so notorious that the area was called the cut-throat lane. Those slums have made way for one of London’s most fashionable and expensive neighbourhoods. A lone surviving ‘bottle’ kiln presents a glimpse into the brick making past.

We climbed a steep hill to see where the rich and famous lived – Nottinghill – and we also saw the garden gate of Nottinghill from the movie of the same name. In the movie, Julia Roberts and Hugh Grant hop over the gate to enter the private garden, which can still be seen inspite of the arch and ivy not being there.

The family made sure I would have literature also served on the holiday platter. ‘Taming of the shrew’ was presented by ‘Shakespeare in the squares’ which took Shakespeare’s timeless plays into gardens and other spaces. A marvellous idea! The play performed in the Queen’s park was delightful. Out in the open, with the heat penetrating our hats, we enjoyed the high energy styles apt for outdoors. Some spectators took refuge under a nearby tree but we Hyderabadis sat on with the sun beating down on us. The actors were also exuberant singers and played their own musical instruments. It was a fine afternoon experience. Akshay joined us here but soon retreated into the shade.

The train journey to Cambridge was through charming countryside. St. Pancreas station from where we took the train is a marvellous architectural building. It’s a world by itself. It’s massive, with shops of every kind – snacks, food, gift articles. The crowds seemed to be enjoying it all when they were not looking for their train timings and platform numbers.

It was again walk time – Cambridge is a different university town altogether. We could see Trinity College only from the outside as it was closed to visitors. Kuppu was excited to be a tiny part of the Ramanujam, Hardy, Newton trinity and legacy. 

Newton’s path-breaking apple tree was in its own special space – not the original tree but a branch from the original is said to have been grafted here. We were also happy as we walked to cheer and clap for the exuberant participants in a race for charity.

The garden in King’s college was open to visitors. So we walked into the esteemed gates and were greeted by a large courtyard with the college buildings on both sides. As we proceeded to the garden, we saw pictures of eminent alumni of the college placed on poles. Well, Kuppu posed with Alan Turning behind him and I, with E. M. Foster. Our day was made!

The garden was beautiful with colourful flowers and trees. A punting activity was going on on the river and we paused on a curved bridge to encourage the punters. Meera loved the place and the sport so much so that we all said she had to study in a London college – so that we could enjoy the lovely sights whenever we wanted to.

The train home was choc-a-bloc with people going to Wimbledon to be first in line for the Queue for the next day’s match. Whether it’s the launch of the Apple iPhone in the US and elsewhere or the 1^st day 1^st show cinema tickets in India, one must compulsorily stand in queue from the previous night itself. Everyone seemed to be excited about getting tickets for the tennis spectacle but soon there was an announcement that there was a problem with the signals on tracks. So, after a wait, we all had to get down and make alternate arrangements to reach our destinations.

Wow! 30^th June had arrived – my birthday! The birthday card had everyone’s heartfelt good wishes and I got a book on ‘Masala Shakespeare’ which shows the affinity between Shakespeare’s art and our cultural forms. The most surprising part of the morning was when A&A gifted me a book with my name on it in bold letters. I had written these stories some 30 years back and had asked A&A to type it out for me - & lo and behold, I got it in a printed form. This was the best birthday gift for me.

The birthday special was a private walking tour, focusing on Dickens and Shakespeare. Our guide, not very young but quite energetic took us through alleys and unseen streets showing us the haunts and locations relevant to the writers’ lives and works. He also spoke about the socio-economic conditions of the day, shedding light on their personal rise through poverty to better status.

It was an almost 2 hour walk the talk. Our guide must have felt tired and he entered a church telling the gentleman there that we were on a walking tour. Then, with a mischievous smile said to us “I wanted to rest my feet”. So did we all.

Our guide reiterated that London provided inspiration to both Shakespeare and Dickens. It stimulated their imagination and provided the backdrop against which many of their memorable scenes were set.

We went along the South bank of River Thames and followed hidden pathways, cobblestone streets and inns which were popular then. As we walked, we passed the very imposing and impressive St. Paul’s Cathedral.

It was a fascinating journey, walking through inn yards and riverside paths that were well known to both Dickens and Shakespeare. We were transported to the London of their days.

The ‘high’light of my birthday was the high tea at The Wolseley in Mayfair, Piccadilly. It was an elegant, welcoming atmosphere we encountered at this restaurant. A classic and classy afternoon tea, it was a light meal of assorted finger sandwiches, pastries, different varieties of cheesecake and scones and a spread of Wolseley collection Teas – English breakfast, Eary Grey, Assam, Yunnan, Jasmine, Chocolate, Caramel, Darjeeling and Green tea. We selected a few of these which came in silver teapots of various sizes and shapes and patterns. The teas were heavenly till the last sip. The snacks came on luxurious silver stands. The table presented a visual and sensuous delight. There was something glamorous about the place, though because of the large number of patrons, the noise level was high. But then, aren’t we used to that?

The Thames River Cruise was again on another hot day. The cruise offers a unique view of its surrounding areas. We were able to see iconic landmarks like the Houses of Parliament, the London Eye and the Shard – a skyscraper known for its distinctive, pointed shape and observation deck. The boat had open air and enclosed decks. We sat on the upper deck for a complete 360 degree view but the heat and the sharp breeze wouldn’t allow us to control our hats or our umbrellas. The commentary was informed and witty. The first half hour is on one boat, then we disembark and have time before taking another boat back. We spent the time walking on the promenade and having ice cream, then again walking on the Tower of London bridge. Once bitten twice shy, so on our return, we sat on the lower deck. Binita and Meera bravely went up again. It was an afternoon well spent and we experienced the beautiful and historic River Thames.

After the cruise, we visited the British Museum. As expected, the place was overflowing with tourists and locals. One can experience the cultures of the globe from the dawn of humanity to the present. For that, time and patience are required. We made our way to the Greece, Rome, Assyria and Egypt galleries and had a glimpse of their huge stone tablets with inscriptions and other artifacts of these ancient civilizations. Some sections were closed for renovation but even then, it will easily take 2 to 3 full days for a complete museum walk. Our skill in ‘making our way’ was tested to the full.

Our trip to Bath was very special. The train took us to this world heritage site through picturesque countryside. Bath is a very pretty town.

The Roman baths along with the gym and other areas in use then were amazing. Our audio guides made it easy for us to understand and appreciate the various treasures unearthed over the past 300 years.

The natural spectacle of hot springs which were supposed to have healing powers and the supply of hot and cold water to the bathing facilities was a marvel in itself. The whole process was very well explained.

Some of the most interesting exhibits were the Bath curse tablets, dating from the 2^nd to 4^th century AD – a collection of ancient Roman era curse tablets in 1979/80 at the Roman Baths. These were personal prayers on thin lead or pewter sheets that were thrown into the sacred springs dedicated to Goddess Minerva, seeking redressal for injustice. Suspected thieves of stolen items, the tablets are believed to have said, should be made to suffer, punished until the stolen property was returned. This showed the faith of ordinary people seeking redress through divine intervention for personal grievances, especially theft. These are valuable artifacts written with a desire for vengeance and justice. Our curses do not require tablets – they are directed at the perpetrator in person, loudly and with appropriate expression and gestures. God helps only those who help themselves so we carry out our revenge to its bitter end. The Bath curse tablets have been recognized by UNESCO as part of their Memory of the World UK register highlighting their cultural and historical significance.

Bath is not only famous for its Roman Baths, though that is the main attraction, but also for the 5 years that the English novelist Jane Austen lived here. The excitement and bustle of the city fascinated her. Her novel ‘Persuasion’ was written here. Bath had a great influence on her writing. The social customs of the day inspired her and the themes of money, marriage and social mobility in her novels still resonate with us.

It is unfortunate that her name did not appear on her books (the well known being ‘Pride and Prejudice’ and ‘Sense and Sensibility’) during her lifetime. Writing was not considered a respectable profession for women of social standing. Initially published anonymously, her brother later revealed her identity posthumously.

The Jane  Austen center we went to was an eye-opener. The narration of her life by a scholarly gentleman shed light on one aspect that surprised me. It is commonly believed that there was no man in her life but briefly she accepted a proposal which she declined the next morning.

One can take pictures here, getting into regency costumes which are available for a price. A lady will help you get into them too. Outside the centre is a life size waxwork of Jane Austen unveiled in 2014 that is photograph worthy.

This is also Austen’s 250^th birth anniversary and a series of activities are planned at the centre and at other places associated with her life and works. This was another literary experience that gladdened my heart. My literary thirst was quenched.

Come to London and not make a stop at the tennis courts of Wimbledon? The walk from the train station to the courts was quite an experience. It was as if everyone in London had descended here. We had to move forward jostling and side-stepping with alacrity. Finally, we reached the gates of the revered courts. We had to be satisfied with taking a picture standing outside, of course, with ‘Centre Court’ seen alluringly as a backdrop. That was the closest we got to the famous grass courts. As we made our way back, we were sure the crowds thought we were returning from a match.

West Minster Abbey and the Tower of London tour was on the agenda for 5 out of 7. Arjun and I took it easy as the above tour would have clashed with my favoured programme. We had dosa in an Indian restaurant and then walked to the theatre to see ‘Mamma Mia’. Met Binita and Meera there while Arjun went to do what he likes best – visiting museums.

The musical, an original story based on the songs of Abba, was magical. The actors, the wonderful choreography, the costumes, the audience of shrieking teenagers made it a lively performance. The stage was small but the voices of the actors as they sang with gusto filled the hall with energy and joie de vivre. The involvement of the audience, and Meera’s excitement and enjoyment, were infectious. We couldn’t help but tap our hands and our feet to the catchy tunes and songs. It was a complete surrender to the charismatic atmosphere. The audience was told to curb their innate drive to sing till the end when they could join the cast enthusiastically – and did they do that!

The show was as brilliant as was the ‘opera’tic voice of the main actor. I felt that my teenage years had returned. The story has been praised for its strong female characters. And it’s a mother-daughter story also focusing on older women and their friendship. The irresistible songs fused effortlessly into the story is what perhaps made audiences all over dance in the aisles. Abba’s timeless songs and the storytelling magic made for unforgettable evenings in its 20 foot-tapping years in London. And for me, an avid Abba fan, it was a fabulous, captivating experience.

At the tube station, the crowds were overwhelming. Every train had people packed like sardines. We finally took the bus home. So I am happy to say that I travelled in every kind of transport on my London visit – airplane, train, tube, boat, uber, bus and my own 2 happy feet.

We couldn’t’ have said ‘Bye’ to London without saying ‘Hi’ to Buckingham Palace. As everywhere else, there were unbelievable crowds every step of our way. People had stationed themselves at the palace gates in such numbers that we didn’t ‘stand’ a chance. From where we finally got a viewing point, we had a clear view of the marching guards on their way to the palace to relieve the old guard. The liveried guards or soldiers in their distinctive uniforms, red tunics and bearskin hats with their accompanying military bands and horses made for a spectacular ceremonial display.

We then headed to Borough Market – the oldest and the most famous fresh food market on the Southern end of London Bridge. Dating back to the 12^th century, it’s a huge market under the railway lines for meat, baked and dairy goods – there’s an incredible range of food from all over Britain and the rest of the world and it provides high quality foods to locals and visitors. The market is a key part of London’s food supply and links city dwellers with fresh food from the countryside.

The entire market with its umpteen number of shops is a feast for the eyes. The sights, smells, vibrant flavours as one walks past is incredible. Shops displayed choco-covered strawberries, toasted sandwiches, fruit juices, chocolates, seafood, fruits, cheeses, fresh vegetables, freshly made food items, breads, mushrooms, oysters, donuts, each vying for attention from the keen shopper. One is really spoilt for choice here. There was a mile long line for Paelle – a rice dish from the Valencian community and one the best known dishes in Spanish cuisine. It was being sold as fast as it was being made and they even had bouncers to keep people in line. Over a hundred delicatessens lured customers with their amazing range of fine foods and free samples were offered as you walked past the stalls.

People were enjoying their food on stadium like rows of benches. We first thought they were watching some show. It turned out that was sitting and eating accommodation. We not only had our lunch at the market, we had a great dessert as well – a humble crumble which had an apple base topped with biscuit crumble and cream. Borough Markey is a very unique experience and it’s a veritable heaven on Earth for foodies.

On our last night in London, we played ‘Monopoly’, something we had been wanting to do right from the night we arrived. Meera was not very enthusiastic about this business of buying and selling but ended up owning stations and streets. I think she was quite happy when Aruna had to leave midway and so was eagerly helpful in putting things away and closing shop.

We had had such a wonderful time together – hum saat saath they – it was sad to part. The morning of our departure saw hugs and Thank Yous and See Yous and Take Cares. Arjun and family took the train to Paris, Aruna left for SFO and Ashwin and we headed home.

It was a marvelous holiday, one that I will remember as long as my memory is intact.

Kodaikanal

It was a holiday that we should have taken some months back. But the delay did not dampen the enthusiasm of getting away, albeit briefly, from household chores. Kodaikanal it was, where, fortunately, we did not have to use our kodai.

We flew into Madurai from where we motored to our temporary home away from home. Karthikeyan of our South Indian temple tour fame was our vahan chalak again. But this time, we enjoyed the luxury of his new Toyota. Conversing ceaselessly as was his wont, he deftly navigated the uphill journey. Curves, turns, hairpin bends were aplenty. My hairpins almost got dislodged. After the rough drive, we reached our haven. All the travails of the earlier 60 minutes were forgotten and forgiven. We were at Isla’s Ridge, a space curated by Isla (the owner) up in the Palani Hills. A Belgian born in Kodaikanal, a world renowned artist and a passionate designer, Isla is said to have travelled the world over by finally couldn’t resist the pull of her roots and created this property ensconced in Palani Hills. Isla’s Ridge is her vision, a homestay with a difference.

When we reached our chosen space it was late evening. Flashes of lightning welcomed us as also the unassuming twin bungalows. The manager very courteously and smilingly showed us to our rooms. We stood outside for a while breathing the fresh, cool breeze while he casually cautioned us against stepping out at night as wild boars and bisons would also have the same idea. The forest all around would harbour them during the day. A chill ran down my spine and it was not only because of the air. I wondered, were they intruding on our land or were we on theirs?

The simple yet yummy dinner of noodles soup, sauce, salad and ice cream succeeded in calming my nerves although once back in my room, I kept looking out of the window to see if any creatures were enjoying the quiet and inkiness of the night.

We woke up to a spectacular morning. A&A were up and about early with their cameras and binoculars as their birding instincts were given impetus by the trees and lush foliage all around. We broke our night’s fast at the table under the trees. The cosy sitting area offered a breath taking view of the distant hills and the valleys with the mist. The chirping birds, the refreshing zephyr on our cheeks and the aroma of the spread on the table was a sensuous treat. Home made bread, home made garlic cheese, home made fig jam along with dosa and sambar, piping hot from the kitchen, was divine.

We were not only mesmerized by the pristine, stunning outdoors but were enthralled by the interiors. There was an easy-going casualness about everything in the resort. The dining room was partly taken up by Isla’s unique library. Coffee table books looked at you invitingly from tables. Two almirahs fondly held books in English and French. Artifacts and curios, with an ‘antique’ness attached to them tastefully formed the décor of the room. Antique and traditional objects of art seemed to get along very well with contemporary items. The charming interiors of the rooms seemed to be curated with love and had furniture that was simple yet unusual. I particularly was impressed by a mandapam with Ganesha in a hitherto unseen stance.

Warm and invigorated after the heavenly breakfast, we were ready for Kodai town and also for a repeat of the turns, bends and traffic. We made our way through villages where the spirit of Diwali was palpable. Kids and adults, dressed in festive finery, were equally excited about bursting crackers in the middle of the road, some stopping for us and some getting a thrill from making us stop. Bits of paper strewn all over the streets made us feel at home.

As we sped along, we passed a cute waterfall where, we were told, one of the two Lyril Soap ads were filmed. We made a short nostalgic stop here. 

The Silver Cascade was a waterfall descending gracefully in white from stone steps high above. There was a dense crowd indulging in selfies, pics and loud chatting but finally we got a beautiful glimpse of the white waters cascading down a stony hill.

The Kodaikanal Natural Science Museum housed in a small building displayed the skins, bones and skeletons of huge and dreaded animals, kept in the safety of glass shelves. 

Our visit to the Pine forest was unforgettable. The tall trees were spread all over a large area and standing near them made us realize how small we were, pitted against nature’s majesty. The roots of the trees, gnarled, entangled and forming a network, seemed to have crawled out of the protective umbrella of the parent and branched out on their own. Standing in one place, we were completely overwhelmed by the expanse and grandeur of the forest.

The Kodai lake was choc-a-bloc with people in pedal boats, enough to deter us from testing the waters. We enjoyed the beauty and vastness of the lake from the shore. 

Kodai is home to umpteen shops displaying a boggling variety of chocolates. We had not seen such a mouth-watering combination of irresistible flavours. All the chocolates are locally made with home grown and imported cocoa and a variety of local flavours. I told Satan to ‘get thee behind me’ but he turned a deaf ear and we were lured into buying a few – is there anyone who can resist a chocolate or two? Spices and many varieties of cheese were also very popular tourist purchases. I can say all these sold like hot cakes.

 On our ‘ups and downs’ journey, Karthikeyan helped enhance our general knowledge about particular film stars. He pointed out to us sprawling mansions of celebrities. Gemini Ganeshan’s two wives had their separate abodes as also Rajnikanth and Kamal Hasan and Vyjiyanthimala. The 4 Ramraj brothers had their palatial houses in a row. Hidden behind thick and high walls, you could still catch a glimpse of the vast property, a sign of past prosperity, if you strained your neck a bit. One wonders what happens when the house owner passes away. Fights, as in movies?

Back at the resort, we were treated to a sumptuous roast vegetables and toasted bread dinner. The roast veggies dish was spoon licking good. A farm to table philosophy is practised here. With both local and continental flavours, dining here was a culinary delight. It rained a bit but thankfully we were in from our outing. Post dinner, we exulted in the view of the hills, the lights of houses in the valley, flashes from the Diwali crackers. What a divine night! What a serene escape from the worldly noise and humdrum!

On the morning of our departure, we decided to take a walk on the property with our lady host as a guide. The garden with colourful flowers, fresh vegetables and fruits and accompaniments like coriander, mint and ginger is a foodie’s delight. The farm also had animals. Four or five dogs, one of which was very friendly would follow us everywhere. Hens and cows also proudly roamed and grazed around. The owner’s two horses named Potluck and Diamond were handsome. The lady was telling us that if the mother (Potluck) was being petted, the son (Diamond) would immediately neigh as if to say ‘Nay’ it’s my turn now, and at that precise moment, as she petted the mother, the son neighed from where he was. It was such an immediate response as if he knew we were discussing him. 

Getting back, we realized there is a such a cosy, warm feel to the place; it’s as if someone has draped a shawl on our shoulders. The chef, the staff, the manager, everyone was so warm, friendly, affectionate and ready to tell us about the place. We felt as if we were family. Isla’s Ridge was an experience which will always bring a smile on our faces. 

Only one regret – we couldn’t meet Isla as she was on a Bombay to Goa visit. She was born in the same year as I and that would have been a great ice-breaker and conversation piece.