In Bali

Ubud and Yogyakarta - names close to home but places farther than that.

            As in some other South East Asian countries, in Bali too where Ubud is located, the 'Hindu' influence is strong. It is said that Maharishi Markandey, an India holy man, followed the voice and vision of his dreams and came from Java to Bali to open new lands for cultivation. He is supposed to have singled out Ubud as a place of beauty and spiritual power and was the first among many to have founded Ubud and the very civilization of Bali.

          An hour's drive from Bali airport and we were at 'our' villa. It was a lovely place -  2 huge bedrooms with partially 'open to the sky' bathrooms, a spacious veranda, a clear blue pool and a veritable jungle on the other side.

 

BahuBali - Bahus in Bali

Nature seemed so close to us. We saw snails moving house slowly but purposefully and brilliant-coloured birds gave us a fleeting glimpse of paradise. At night, myriad sounds from the roof filled the room. Only our very own lizard's click click seemed familiar. The wakeup call came regularly from a cock's crowing but is seemed to like its work and its voice and would continue to stir people up long after daybreak. Outside the villa were the sprawling rice fields.

Today's Ubud is made up numerous villages, amazing in their diversity. To go to the city centre, we had to pass through these villages, each one known for one particular craft. Batuan is home to traditional painters who did not fight shy of assimilating modern styles and techniques; Seluk is famed for its gold and Silver workmanship - as there are no mines in Ubud, the material is brought from Borneo. Mas is renowned for its intricate wood carving.

The variety of wood used - mahogany, ebony, hibiscus and crocodile, is as interesting as the variety of objects created. Animals right from the cat to komodo dragon as well as other creatures, human characters, ornate doors and furniture, Gods. One can only marvel at the brilliant forms of creativity especially when it is all chiselled by hand. The finished objects are a fine result of immense patience and skill. We could not resist buying a couple of exquisite items.

Batubalan is the home of stone sculptures and the huge sculptures of Gods, humans, demons which are lined up on the pavements outside the workshops for sale are mind boggling. They also adorn the houses of the locals.   The black stone comes from the lava of the active volcanoes of Bali. The sculptors mainly focus on Hindu Gods and Goddesses. The sculptures adorn even the intersections. We saw gigantic creations based on the Ramayana, a favourite epic for the Balinese, not surprising since Bali boasts of a 95% Hindu population.    

Most of these craftsman, alone or in groups, work in the compounds of their traditional houses creating magic on wood, stone and silver. Ashwin also put on his creative cap and imagined a Balinese Romeo and Juliet with the stone sculptor’s son falling in love with the wood carver's daughter.

     

The Goa Gajah, an 11th century elephant cave temple has a unique entrance – menacing creatures and demons are carved into the rock facade. The images of elephants dominate, naturally. Inside the cave are niches for meditation. Going farther into the darkness we saw a beautiful Ganesha. The trimurthi – Siva, Vishnu and Brahma – were ensconced in an alcove in their raw, original, formless form. They could be distinguished by the colour of the fabric on them. Offerings continue to be made here each day.

 

            The Holy Spring temple or the Thirtha Empul Temple was a revelation. The temple compound consists of a bathing structure famous for its holy spring water where Balinese Hindus go for ritual purification. The temple pond has a spring which gives out fresh water regularly which is amrut to the locals. This temple is dedicated to Vishnu. The tank-like structure has about a dozen spouts from which water gushes out. We saw people forming lines to experience this purification. They had to go from one spout to another ducking their head under each spout till the end for the ritual to be complete. We saw many non-locals and foreigners bathing in the tanks, showering holiness on themselves and looking quite excited about the entire process. We also sprinkled a little water on our heads, enough to be purified!

            On a hill overlooking the temple, a modern villa was built for President Sukarno’s visit in 1954. Currently it is a rest house for important guests. The location and the greenery around it makes it an impressive residence.

            In most of these temples, visitors must wear appropriate clothes. Those exposing their legs had to rent a sarong and cover their skin. We also had to wear sarongs though we were fully covered because the guide gave us some reason we couldn't comprehend.

            The Tegallalang rice terraces which were on our to-see list presented an awesome site. The lush green terraces on the slopes could be called dramatic. Both utilitarian and aesthetic, they were a sight for sore eyes. It’s no wonder then that this is a favourite spot for taking pictures – painters and nature lovers must find this place congenial too. We were happy to view the terraces from a comfortable distance.

            The official residence of the royal family of Ubud, the Ubud palace is not vast but it has its own beauty. Its location is strategic, in the center of Ubud on a very busy intersection. It has existed in the same place but has undergone renovation and extension. When we visited the place, work was going on and we had to watch both our steps and our heads. Beautiful ornamental carvings can be seen on the walls and buildings. Many pavilions and some areas in the palace compounds are out of bounds for the general public. The beautiful main entrance gate is completely carved with gold engraving. The royal family did not merely occupy the palace but almost single-handedly gave an impetus to tourism by accommodating well known painters and artists in the palace and then bringing foreigners and local people together to add value and marketing opportunities to the painting scene of Ubud. However, despite the foreign influence, the soul of the paintings has remained Balinese portraying everyday life and activities as also stories from the religious sphere.

            The Royal family temple contains both the royal family ancestral shrines and the strayed Meru shrines dedicated to the major deities. The temple is surrounded by a beautiful lotus garden. The pagoda – like structures, the expansive grounds and the proportionate courtyards present a picturesque image. Here also, we can see the traditional outer, middle and inner courtyard structure.

            The Uluwatu temple us renowned for its magnificent location, perched on a top of steep cliff, approx. 70 meters above sea level. It is one of the top places on the island for sunset delights – it overlooks the Indian ocean and the views of water surging up against the rocks and the ocean horizon are a spectacular sight.  We did not visit the temple but enjoyed the panoramic seascape. The temple is also known for its monkey menace. The monkeys are prone to get attracted by shiny objects and may snatch dark glasses, earring, chains etc. Our guide advised us to take off our jewellery etc. I was quite ready to obey him and covered my neck, ears, head and felt I could sacrifice my goggles too though it was a very hot day. Aruna was braver and nonchalant and said she would take care of things when the monkeys came.

            The Tanah Lot temple boasts another breath-taking location. Built on a small island, the temple is to be reached by crossing the open waters and we voted against it. The two temples revealed incredible natural splendour.

            We couldn’t have ended the day without frolicking on the beach. It was a long drive and we stopped at a coffee place to stretch our legs – and what a lucky coincidence it turned out to be. Our guide took us around the spice garden and the Luwak coffee plantation. Kapi Luwak, the costliest coffee in the world, refers to the coffee that includes part digested coffee cherries eaten and defecated by the Asian palm civet.

The civet cat eats the coffee berry but doesn’t digest the hard stone which is the coffee bean which is then excreted. But we need not screw our noses because the coffee is not raw or neat luwak poop. We listened to the whole long process with a sense of amazement. The poop is collected and cleaned in water at least 5 times – then it is put in the sun 3 or 4 times for it to become completely dry. The outer skin is then removed, and the roasting commences on medium wood fire, one kilo taking about 45mins. Then the roasted coffee beans are pounded manually in a wooden bowl with a pestle for better quality and taste. Finally, the powder is sieved and packed. We were offered about 15 kinds of coffee and tea to taste – Ashwin, Aruna and Kuppu tasted the luwak coffee.

           

The beach we went to was filled with people sitting at the hundreds of tables set on the white sands, eating seafood, a speciality, drinking, chatting, imbibing the atmosphere – chilling out would be the way to describe it -  the carnival mood was infectious. The beaches are known for the kaleidoscope sunsets which arrive on cue at around 6PM every day of the year, we were told. We enjoyed the breeze as the surf hugged our feet and the when the sun started to set, we were rendered speechless by the resplendent hues colouring the sky. We didn’t get back to our table till the sun slid fully into the ocean. It was akin to a divine revelation.

            Our guide was very well informed and also displayed a wry sense of humour. When asked what the popular sport in Indonesia was, he said ‘Football’ and added that you could also get to see a boxing bout as “we (spectators) fight a lot during football games”. Two for the price of one, he said. There are no arranged marriages, he volunteered. When asked if couples are happy, he said ‘Yes, the 1^st week’. He also said that women normally cooked only once a day. One ate anytime one wanted – there was no fixed dining time and no dining table conversation.

            The public transportation is not very adequate, so we noticed thousands of motorbikes on the roads. They are used by the locals and school children – again because of lack of school buses. It’s scary to see such young kids on two wheelers but they ride them like pros.

            The clean villages with their traditional houses which normally have a split gate (depicting good and evil), inside which is a wall that prevents evil from entering. There is usually a temple inside the house which is adorned with many stone sculpture. Lord Ganesha is the guardian for these houses. Even hotels and shops propitiate Him at the entrance and the staff burns incense and wears flowers in the ear.

            We knew we shouldn’t miss the mask museum, so we started a little early to visit it on the way to the airport for the next leg of our holiday.

            The museum houses an amazing collection of masks and puppets in the 5 or 6 different rooms on the premises. There are used during festivals and special occasions. An entire room was devoted to the masks for the Ramayana characters. There were masks which depicted different emotions – anger, fear, love, evil etc. Mr Obama featured in the wooden masks section, albeit in his full glory. Masks from Japanese, Chinese and other international sections were also given a pride of place.

            Ubud was truly a delightful, heart-warming experience, an exhilarating destination. Apart from stone sculptures, wood carving and silver work, Batik work and the tinkling gamelan music have become welcome features of the tourist industry. As also adventure sports which have picked up momentum over the years, white water rafting attracts tourists as also bike rides (we saw groups of bikers weaving their way along the roads more than once) which are organized. They pass through forests, emerald green rice fields, temples and villages. Trekking is also gaining popularity. Foreigners, specially Australians come to Bali for surfing. At the airport we saw many of them with just a backpack thrown carelessly on their shoulders but holding on to their surf boards passionately. Bali, they say, is a surfer’s paradise.

            One thing that struck us as emulation worthy was that there was hardly any honking on the roads.  No driver got down and confronted another. There were no signs of impatience or road rage. Perhaps the Balinese principle of Tri Hita Karana (achieving harmony with God, nature and between humans) stands them in good stead. Perhaps eating organic food on banana leaves also contributes to their serene attitude and outlook. Their concern for community could also be the secret.

            The beauty of village life we felt, has not been disturbed by tourism. The bedrock of Hindu Buddhist co-existence has not been eroded. The experience of going through clean traditional villages, seeing their culture depicted on stone, canvas, wood, silver and fabric is comforting. Modernization or the tourist influence has not overwhelmed culture. The Balinese may be learning English because it will open many doors, but they will not close their minds to their own traditions, religion and past.

Siem Reap to KL

A vibrant civilization which had lasted more than a thousand years had lain hidden in the almost impenetrable jungles of Cambodia for over 500 years before the French naturalist Henri Mohout literally stumbled upon the enormous ruins of the legendary capital of the Khmer Empire and we were finally on our way to perhaps the most unforgettable part of the trip. 

Siem Reap, Cambodia, was on a different level altogether.  The broad roads, the regular familiar shops juxtaposed with big hotels and splendid X-mas decorations geared to the tourists (after all the driving force of Siem Reap is its tourist economy – interestingly only US$ is the accepted currency here).  That is the first but not the last or lasting impression of this city which boasts of a conglomeration of temples like no other.

Our tourist guide Rey was a treasure trove of information regarding Khmer and Hindu history and mythology.  Angkor Wat’s golden age could be traced between the 10th and 13th centuries when it was the most powerful and opulent empire in SE Asia.  It was the consistent capital of the powerful Khmer empire (9th to15th century) till the center of gravity moved to Phenom Penh in the 15th to 16th centuries.  The architecture here serves as evidence of the strong Khmer religious beliefs – a welcome overlapping and coexistence of Hinduism and Buddhism.  Hinduism was the religion of most Khmer kings altho ’later most Hindu temples were transformed into Buddhist sanctuaries.  Legend and some written sources attribute the introduction and the spread of Hinduism not only to trade between the 2 countries but to Kaundinya,  a Brahmin of Indian origin who is said to have married a local princess and begun the royal line.

The Angkor complex consists of about 200 monuments spread over an area of about 400 sq. meters and Angkor Wat is the most well known and largest temple.  One cannot but marvel at the finest and best preserved carvings.  Impressive entrance gateways richly ornate with faces, the 3-tiered or 5-tiered pyramid like monuments, the impressive towers, wide moats (many of them more than a kilometer wide) temporarily bridged at some places with narrow earthen embankments making walking precarious on narrow planks laid down (I was especially panic stricken during one such crossing), long walls, galleries connecting different levels of the temple, intricately carved panels, enclosures where ritual dances were probably performed, terraces, steps – which in many places were merely uneven stones or  recently placed wooden ladder like planks –  seemingly insurmountable. I would freeze at the thought of putting my feet on them, but Ashwin and Aruna had the confidence and will power that I lacked. ‘You can do it Amma’ and out stretched hands helped me thaw every time!  Walking gingerly from one level to another, negotiating bricks and stones, clutching the balustrade or railing when there was one and walking side ways on the narrow stairs(being  a cancerian helped, perhaps?!). Sounds breathless? Was so too!  Words do not suffice to express the huffing and the puffing that seemed to overtake normal breathing.  But on reaching the top level one feels like a conquerer of the world.  It is an overwhelming emotion of joy and achievement that wipes out the earlier sweat and dread.  Of course now, at several places, wooden steps have been placed to help tourists negotiate the steep climb.

The great Vaishnavite temple of Angkor Wat is supposedly the most beautiful of all Khmer monuments.  The State temple is surrounded by a moat almost 25 meters wide and occupies an area of 1500 meters by 1300 meters.  To get to the actual pyramid one has to follow a raised causeway bordered by Naga balustrades.  Three terraces support the tower sanctuaries and are flanked by galleries. A massive statue of an eight armed standing Vishnu greets us after we climb the steps on one side.  The temple is supposed to have been originally dedicated to Vishnu who is still an object of reverence and veneration, an important guardian spirit to Cambodians. Vishnu and by association the king, is exalted here. 

Further on, one can admire huge panels depicting specific scenes from the Hindu epics Ramayana and Mahabharata – Krishna killing Kamsa, Jarasandha being killed by Bheema with Krishna watching from the sidelines and Krishna lifting Govardhan Giri and sheltering  the cows.

One of the galleries here depicts the churning of the ocean of milk (ksheera  sagara  madhana), said to be the most famous scene at Angkor Wat.  In fact most of the causeways depict this scene with fierce faced Asuras on one side and benign Devas on the other.  Though somewhat damaged, the stone figures with Naga in their hands present an eerily recognisable spectacle.  Our guide showed the bullet marks, still noticeable, and told us that this temple was damaged during the infamous civil war/revolution where the loyalists and the revolutionaries fought a bitter battle.

The 3 tiered Bayon Temple is another master piece of Khmer architecture.  Between Angkor Wat and Bayon  in Angkor Thom is the well preserved South Gate, part of the long 12km wall of the town of Angkor Thom. 

As one approaches the 23 meter high gate one crosses a 100 meter causeway flanked on either side by 54 devas and 54 asuras pulling on a giant Naga /Vasuki(our guide emphasised that you shouldn’t call it a snake).  Some interpret these figures as guardians of the city – nagas symbolising water and treasure and therefore linked to prosperity. The other impressive statues are huge stone lions – it seems a lion represents the land/earth which is essential for human survival.  

Bayon, even with its 49 towers on the 2nd and 3rd level of the monument, is more compact than the sprawling Angkor Wat. 

 It seems that it once consisted of around 216 enigmatically smiling stone faces carved into 54 towers.  Today, the 37 towers that remain create an awe-inspiring impact.  The iconic and massive ‘’Face Towers’ have varied interpretations – Buddhist embodiment of compassion, love, wisdom and enlightenment, or a representation of Jayavarman VII, the king most intimately connected with Angkor Wat, and the  most famous and the most prolific builder of  temples, including  Bayon or images of Prohm, the Khmer pronunciation of Brahma.

The 4 faces on each tower are also sometimes perceived as the Hindu trinity and Buddha. Whatever the import of the faces, Brahmanic dieties or Buddhist divinities, the impact of this epic presence verging on the sublime, is such that it  makes one aware of one’s own ‘smallness’.The third tier of the temple affords the best vantage points to glimpse these magnificent faces. 

Coming face to face with these visages can be quite unsettling and humbling.

 
The bas reliefs and panels depicting battle scenes jostle for space alongside more commonplace vignettes of daily human life – hunting, fishing, cock fights, markets, festivals and more such domestic scenes. 

At Preah Khan, a temple dedicated to the king’s father, a causeway across a moat again depicts   bull-chested asuras  as well as devas pulling on a Naga. 


The outer wall of this temple is interestingly adorned all the way around with giant sandstone Garudas clutching Nagas in their talons.  The temple shares with Angkor Thom spectacular parapets formed by giants supporting the body of a naga across the moats  surrounding it.

A hall of dancers here is identified by carvings on the many columns that adorn the place,  I couldn’t resist  striking a pose – whether I did justice to the dance form or not is the least of my fears.

No words can do justice to the quality and design of the lintel carvings on the temple doorways.  Very lucid, the detail and the depth  elicits  gasps of appreciative wonder.  I particularly loved the carving that depicted Hanuman ready to give Rama’s Mudrika to a downcast Sita sitting under the ashoka tree. 

Ta Prohm temple is dedicated to King Jayavarman VII’s mother.  People mainly pass quickly round the temple to see the photogenic strangler fig growing on one of the gopuras and on the outside walls of the temple.  This temple was made famous, rather brought to the notice of the outside world, thanks to the Angelina Jolie movie ‘’The Tomb Raider’’.  The temple is left in its natural state – its appeal derives as much from the chaotic aspect of its ruins as from the oppressive vegetation smothering the buildings and the walls.

The Banteay Srei Temple, about 30 kms from Siem Reap town, was discovered in the depths of a forest. 

The temple is remarkable for its pink sand stone but more importantly for the exceptional virtuosity of its decoration and the delicacy of the work.  Both Shiva and Vishnu were worshipped here, albeit in different sanctuary towers. One of the most outstanding carvings here is that of the burning of the Khandawa forest with Arjuna and Krishna protecting Agni from Varuna.





Temple Carvings

Lintel carving of Naga

Lintel carving of Goddess Lakshmi

Narasimha Avatar



 
Another impressive one was the Sugriva-Vali fight. Precision and clarity seemed to have acquired a deeper definition courtesy these works of deft art.

Shaivism was almost always the state religion in this part of the world – hence the numerous lingas in the small and big temples. Indra also finds a pride of place and is usually shown astride his mount, the three headed elephant Airavata. Some of these depictions have gone beyond the country of their origin.

Lintel carving of Ravana trying to lift Mount Kailash

Outside these temples, families create and sell local handicrafts.  Work on cowhide and copper are very popular.  Once, as we moved on after an admiring glance at these, I was amused by young girls come running, point to my bindi and say ‘Give me Hindu’, ‘Give me India’.

Our guide had really enlightened us in the land of the Buddha. His commentary was riveting.  But Kuppu who also has an astounding knowledge of Indian mythology sometimes kept the guide himself rapt and wrapped round his fingers.  No wonder then that we thought we had 2 guides – one local and one imported from our own chikkadpally.

 Angkor Wat had turned out to be an exciting place with its regal majesty and calm repose.  It is heartening to note that several countries are involved in restoring the ruins without disturbing the environment and the original beauty – especially the hundreds of years old trees at Ta Prohm that grow around and into the temple walls.  The India- Cambodia   co-operation Project is going strong with artisans working on rebuilding the temples by numbering the boulders so as to put them back in the same order.  The French, Swiss and the Japanese Governments are also part of the restoration process.  I have to say cheers and long life to Angkor Wat and its exotic environs.

The temples had challenged and overwhelmed us physically, visually and at times emotionally.  But we couldn’t have left Seam Reap without taking a look at what was real and continuing history – history in motion –the rural Siem Reap.

On our way from one temple to another, we had seen locals working on rice fields, cow carts moving slowly but steadily with loads, buffaloes plodding around flooded rice paddies and land dotted with houses on stilts.  But our guide had something more unique in mind – a floating village, a village at the mouth of the Seam Reap river dating back to Angkor times.

It had rained heavily earlier and the path we traversed was muddy, slushy and slippery.  But hadn’t we got used to overcoming obstacles?  So we resolutely got onto the boat that would ferry us to our final destination in Seam Reap.  Lovely , extensive mangroves formed part of the riverscape.  These mangroves, intertwined in the waters, attract adventurous tourists to weave through this forest on boats.  We chanced upon other boats with tourists returning from the village before we sighted the same. Hundreds of houses built on stilts adjoining and abutting one another opened our eyes to an entirely new world.  The painful reality of the lives of the people here was palpable – 300 families live in these houses, we were told. It’s the only life they know and the women hardly venture out except to sell their wares to tourists like us.  In spite of the poor sanitary conditions and the poor quality of life, the inhabitants seemed to be happy with their lives – Dogs were running down the steps (man’s best friends, always!) wagging their tails, some children were playing foot ball wherever they could find some dry place near the shallow waters while some others were diving into the water from the steps.  Perhaps these children took to swimming before they took their first wobbly steps.  There is only one primary school, it seems, and we saw school girls returning home rowing  their own boat.

Men , whose primary vocation was catching fish would  sometimes stay days on waters to fill their fishing nets. The large lake where we stopped for a while to enjoy the invigorating breeze and feel at one with nature seemed limitless.    Our guide told us that the surface area of the lake increases from 2000 to 10000 square miles during the rainy season.     The nutrient rich water from this tributary of Mekong river which originates in Tibet floods the margins of the lake and the surrounding forest creating both a huge natural paddy field and a safe fish hatchery.  This largest fresh water lake in SE Asia supposedly ranks among the most productive fishing grounds in the world supporting the lives of millions of Khmers.

This touristy visit to a floating village whose inhabitants depend on  the water for all their needs was an emotional experience, an experience that tugged at our heart strings and was a fitting finale to our trip of a life time.

 Back from the Cambodian never-to-be forgotten trip, we decided to go sedate – not to be too ambitious.  Ashwin  & Aruna took off in a different direction as we decided to explore lesser known places where Preeti herself had not ventured.

The Independence Square, also called Mederka Square, is the venue for Malaysia’s annual Independence parade celebrations.  A big open space, it is a very well preserved heritage area.  Though at the centre of the city, it has a pristine quality to it.   

This is where the Union Jack was lowered and the Malaysian flag hoisted in 1957 to end the British colonisation.  The 100 meters high flagpole is the highest in the world and marks the place where the flag was first hoisted in 1957.  The buildings on one side of the square with arches and onion shaped domed pavilions are a spectacular example of Islamic culture.  Some of these buildings were Government Departments in the British era but now have been converted into museums and restaurants.
A typical British cricket Green and the accompanying pavilion remind one of the earlier English presence in the country.  It’s relaxing to just amble along the square with no vehicles to brake our leisurely movement and mood.  The Clock Tower is referred to as the Big Ben of KL.

We were just in time for an interesting exhibition which showcased the present and the future face of KL in the city gallery in the same area.  The scale model of the entire city was very impressive, especially when lit.  There were miniature models of famous buildings and we saw craftsmen doing the intricate work.  There was a souvenir shop and a restaurant where you could redeem your exhibition entry tickets to buy anything.  Since it was a very hot day we voted for refreshing coconut water.

The National Textile Museum was just a few steps away.  It displayed tie dye  fabrics as also the looms and material used in the process.  Malaysia is one of the leading producers of this fabric.

The  I   KL board right outside was a tempting photo spot.  With a little bit of coaxing, Preeti and I posed while Kuppu ‘shot’.  I have a sneaky suspicion that the inspiration for the   I   Hyd on our Eat Street came from here.

All these interesting sights were in one area and the best thing was that it was not packed with tourists.  The relaxed atmosphere was most welcome.  Preeti especially, was pleased as Punch because she had a ready-made itinerary for the next visiting bunch!!  We had carried out a dress rehearsal in a way!

It is always sad to say goodbyes but we carried back memories of a very happy stay.  KL has its own charm which needs to be savoured – and we did just that.

And finally, Preeti’s culinary and driving skills are not to be underrated.   We tasted one and tested the other!