London

 

I was entering the elegant eighties and a holiday planned by my children seemed like a perfect getaway.

Arjun and family met us in London from Berkeley even as we flew there from Hyderabad. I was filled with trepidation and apprehension regarding the flight especially after the recent Dreamliner’s horrific nightmare. But these fears were assuaged with the pilot’s smooth take off and their silken landing.

Our AirBnB in London was out of this world. Roomy, with cosy furniture, a long reclining sofa, a longer dining table with stove and seating for a dozen people, 3 large bedrooms and a not-so-empty larder. A lovely cupboard with ‘spirit’ed bottles – alas, all empty, arranged neatly greeted us as we entered our abode. Bottles, bottles everywhere, not a drop to drink, some would say. The massive fridge, the well-gadgeted kitchen made our stay very comfortable. We were part of the Wimbledon district but the tennis courts were out of our reach.

The children scoured the neighbourhood for eateries and found we were well equipped even for emergencies.

There was a planned itinerary but nothing so rigid that we couldn’t deviate from it. Well known tourist places co-existed with those that would be our own experiences.

From day 1 we were ready and raring to go. We were blissfully unaware of the number of miles we would be walking, the number of steps we would be ascending and descending and the crowds we would be encountering – all this in the hot English summer which greeted us as we left the hot Indian summer behind us.

The English love to walk and we decided to emulate them in their land.  Walking tours with specific themes and learned guides are popular here. Our first 2 hour walk dealt with the English elite and lower classes as exemplified by Nottinghill and Nottingdale. It was arduous but interesting. Our lady guide’s perspective on piggeries and potteries of the late 18^th century in the worst slums of those days almost made us cover our noses! The slums were so notorious that the area was called the cut-throat lane. Those slums have made way for one of London’s most fashionable and expensive neighbourhoods. A lone surviving ‘bottle’ kiln presents a glimpse into the brick making past.

We climbed a steep hill to see where the rich and famous lived – Nottinghill – and we also saw the garden gate of Nottinghill from the movie of the same name. In the movie, Julia Roberts and Hugh Grant hop over the gate to enter the private garden, which can still be seen inspite of the arch and ivy not being there.

The family made sure I would have literature also served on the holiday platter. ‘Taming of the shrew’ was presented by ‘Shakespeare in the squares’ which took Shakespeare’s timeless plays into gardens and other spaces. A marvellous idea! The play performed in the Queen’s park was delightful. Out in the open, with the heat penetrating our hats, we enjoyed the high energy styles apt for outdoors. Some spectators took refuge under a nearby tree but we Hyderabadis sat on with the sun beating down on us. The actors were also exuberant singers and played their own musical instruments. It was a fine afternoon experience. Akshay joined us here but soon retreated into the shade.

The train journey to Cambridge was through charming countryside. St. Pancreas station from where we took the train is a marvellous architectural building. It’s a world by itself. It’s massive, with shops of every kind – snacks, food, gift articles. The crowds seemed to be enjoying it all when they were not looking for their train timings and platform numbers.

It was again walk time – Cambridge is a different university town altogether. We could see Trinity College only from the outside as it was closed to visitors. Kuppu was excited to be a tiny part of the Ramanujam, Hardy, Newton trinity and legacy. 

Newton’s path-breaking apple tree was in its own special space – not the original tree but a branch from the original is said to have been grafted here. We were also happy as we walked to cheer and clap for the exuberant participants in a race for charity.

The garden in King’s college was open to visitors. So we walked into the esteemed gates and were greeted by a large courtyard with the college buildings on both sides. As we proceeded to the garden, we saw pictures of eminent alumni of the college placed on poles. Well, Kuppu posed with Alan Turning behind him and I, with E. M. Foster. Our day was made!

The garden was beautiful with colourful flowers and trees. A punting activity was going on on the river and we paused on a curved bridge to encourage the punters. Meera loved the place and the sport so much so that we all said she had to study in a London college – so that we could enjoy the lovely sights whenever we wanted to.

The train home was choc-a-bloc with people going to Wimbledon to be first in line for the Queue for the next day’s match. Whether it’s the launch of the Apple iPhone in the US and elsewhere or the 1^st day 1^st show cinema tickets in India, one must compulsorily stand in queue from the previous night itself. Everyone seemed to be excited about getting tickets for the tennis spectacle but soon there was an announcement that there was a problem with the signals on tracks. So, after a wait, we all had to get down and make alternate arrangements to reach our destinations.

Wow! 30^th June had arrived – my birthday! The birthday card had everyone’s heartfelt good wishes and I got a book on ‘Masala Shakespeare’ which shows the affinity between Shakespeare’s art and our cultural forms. The most surprising part of the morning was when A&A gifted me a book with my name on it in bold letters. I had written these stories some 30 years back and had asked A&A to type it out for me - & lo and behold, I got it in a printed form. This was the best birthday gift for me.

The birthday special was a private walking tour, focusing on Dickens and Shakespeare. Our guide, not very young but quite energetic took us through alleys and unseen streets showing us the haunts and locations relevant to the writers’ lives and works. He also spoke about the socio-economic conditions of the day, shedding light on their personal rise through poverty to better status.

It was an almost 2 hour walk the talk. Our guide must have felt tired and he entered a church telling the gentleman there that we were on a walking tour. Then, with a mischievous smile said to us “I wanted to rest my feet”. So did we all.

Our guide reiterated that London provided inspiration to both Shakespeare and Dickens. It stimulated their imagination and provided the backdrop against which many of their memorable scenes were set.

We went along the South bank of River Thames and followed hidden pathways, cobblestone streets and inns which were popular then. As we walked, we passed the very imposing and impressive St. Paul’s Cathedral.

It was a fascinating journey, walking through inn yards and riverside paths that were well known to both Dickens and Shakespeare. We were transported to the London of their days.

The ‘high’light of my birthday was the high tea at The Wolseley in Mayfair, Piccadilly. It was an elegant, welcoming atmosphere we encountered at this restaurant. A classic and classy afternoon tea, it was a light meal of assorted finger sandwiches, pastries, different varieties of cheesecake and scones and a spread of Wolseley collection Teas – English breakfast, Eary Grey, Assam, Yunnan, Jasmine, Chocolate, Caramel, Darjeeling and Green tea. We selected a few of these which came in silver teapots of various sizes and shapes and patterns. The teas were heavenly till the last sip. The snacks came on luxurious silver stands. The table presented a visual and sensuous delight. There was something glamorous about the place, though because of the large number of patrons, the noise level was high. But then, aren’t we used to that?

The Thames River Cruise was again on another hot day. The cruise offers a unique view of its surrounding areas. We were able to see iconic landmarks like the Houses of Parliament, the London Eye and the Shard – a skyscraper known for its distinctive, pointed shape and observation deck. The boat had open air and enclosed decks. We sat on the upper deck for a complete 360 degree view but the heat and the sharp breeze wouldn’t allow us to control our hats or our umbrellas. The commentary was informed and witty. The first half hour is on one boat, then we disembark and have time before taking another boat back. We spent the time walking on the promenade and having ice cream, then again walking on the Tower of London bridge. Once bitten twice shy, so on our return, we sat on the lower deck. Binita and Meera bravely went up again. It was an afternoon well spent and we experienced the beautiful and historic River Thames.

After the cruise, we visited the British Museum. As expected, the place was overflowing with tourists and locals. One can experience the cultures of the globe from the dawn of humanity to the present. For that, time and patience are required. We made our way to the Greece, Rome, Assyria and Egypt galleries and had a glimpse of their huge stone tablets with inscriptions and other artifacts of these ancient civilizations. Some sections were closed for renovation but even then, it will easily take 2 to 3 full days for a complete museum walk. Our skill in ‘making our way’ was tested to the full.

Our trip to Bath was very special. The train took us to this world heritage site through picturesque countryside. Bath is a very pretty town.

The Roman baths along with the gym and other areas in use then were amazing. Our audio guides made it easy for us to understand and appreciate the various treasures unearthed over the past 300 years.

The natural spectacle of hot springs which were supposed to have healing powers and the supply of hot and cold water to the bathing facilities was a marvel in itself. The whole process was very well explained.

Some of the most interesting exhibits were the Bath curse tablets, dating from the 2^nd to 4^th century AD – a collection of ancient Roman era curse tablets in 1979/80 at the Roman Baths. These were personal prayers on thin lead or pewter sheets that were thrown into the sacred springs dedicated to Goddess Minerva, seeking redressal for injustice. Suspected thieves of stolen items, the tablets are believed to have said, should be made to suffer, punished until the stolen property was returned. This showed the faith of ordinary people seeking redress through divine intervention for personal grievances, especially theft. These are valuable artifacts written with a desire for vengeance and justice. Our curses do not require tablets – they are directed at the perpetrator in person, loudly and with appropriate expression and gestures. God helps only those who help themselves so we carry out our revenge to its bitter end. The Bath curse tablets have been recognized by UNESCO as part of their Memory of the World UK register highlighting their cultural and historical significance.

Bath is not only famous for its Roman Baths, though that is the main attraction, but also for the 5 years that the English novelist Jane Austen lived here. The excitement and bustle of the city fascinated her. Her novel ‘Persuasion’ was written here. Bath had a great influence on her writing. The social customs of the day inspired her and the themes of money, marriage and social mobility in her novels still resonate with us.

It is unfortunate that her name did not appear on her books (the well known being ‘Pride and Prejudice’ and ‘Sense and Sensibility’) during her lifetime. Writing was not considered a respectable profession for women of social standing. Initially published anonymously, her brother later revealed her identity posthumously.

The Jane  Austen center we went to was an eye-opener. The narration of her life by a scholarly gentleman shed light on one aspect that surprised me. It is commonly believed that there was no man in her life but briefly she accepted a proposal which she declined the next morning.

One can take pictures here, getting into regency costumes which are available for a price. A lady will help you get into them too. Outside the centre is a life size waxwork of Jane Austen unveiled in 2014 that is photograph worthy.

This is also Austen’s 250^th birth anniversary and a series of activities are planned at the centre and at other places associated with her life and works. This was another literary experience that gladdened my heart. My literary thirst was quenched.

Come to London and not make a stop at the tennis courts of Wimbledon? The walk from the train station to the courts was quite an experience. It was as if everyone in London had descended here. We had to move forward jostling and side-stepping with alacrity. Finally, we reached the gates of the revered courts. We had to be satisfied with taking a picture standing outside, of course, with ‘Centre Court’ seen alluringly as a backdrop. That was the closest we got to the famous grass courts. As we made our way back, we were sure the crowds thought we were returning from a match.

West Minster Abbey and the Tower of London tour was on the agenda for 5 out of 7. Arjun and I took it easy as the above tour would have clashed with my favoured programme. We had dosa in an Indian restaurant and then walked to the theatre to see ‘Mamma Mia’. Met Binita and Meera there while Arjun went to do what he likes best – visiting museums.

The musical, an original story based on the songs of Abba, was magical. The actors, the wonderful choreography, the costumes, the audience of shrieking teenagers made it a lively performance. The stage was small but the voices of the actors as they sang with gusto filled the hall with energy and joie de vivre. The involvement of the audience, and Meera’s excitement and enjoyment, were infectious. We couldn’t help but tap our hands and our feet to the catchy tunes and songs. It was a complete surrender to the charismatic atmosphere. The audience was told to curb their innate drive to sing till the end when they could join the cast enthusiastically – and did they do that!

The show was as brilliant as was the ‘opera’tic voice of the main actor. I felt that my teenage years had returned. The story has been praised for its strong female characters. And it’s a mother-daughter story also focusing on older women and their friendship. The irresistible songs fused effortlessly into the story is what perhaps made audiences all over dance in the aisles. Abba’s timeless songs and the storytelling magic made for unforgettable evenings in its 20 foot-tapping years in London. And for me, an avid Abba fan, it was a fabulous, captivating experience.

At the tube station, the crowds were overwhelming. Every train had people packed like sardines. We finally took the bus home. So I am happy to say that I travelled in every kind of transport on my London visit – airplane, train, tube, boat, uber, bus and my own 2 happy feet.

We couldn’t’ have said ‘Bye’ to London without saying ‘Hi’ to Buckingham Palace. As everywhere else, there were unbelievable crowds every step of our way. People had stationed themselves at the palace gates in such numbers that we didn’t ‘stand’ a chance. From where we finally got a viewing point, we had a clear view of the marching guards on their way to the palace to relieve the old guard. The liveried guards or soldiers in their distinctive uniforms, red tunics and bearskin hats with their accompanying military bands and horses made for a spectacular ceremonial display.

We then headed to Borough Market – the oldest and the most famous fresh food market on the Southern end of London Bridge. Dating back to the 12^th century, it’s a huge market under the railway lines for meat, baked and dairy goods – there’s an incredible range of food from all over Britain and the rest of the world and it provides high quality foods to locals and visitors. The market is a key part of London’s food supply and links city dwellers with fresh food from the countryside.

The entire market with its umpteen number of shops is a feast for the eyes. The sights, smells, vibrant flavours as one walks past is incredible. Shops displayed choco-covered strawberries, toasted sandwiches, fruit juices, chocolates, seafood, fruits, cheeses, fresh vegetables, freshly made food items, breads, mushrooms, oysters, donuts, each vying for attention from the keen shopper. One is really spoilt for choice here. There was a mile long line for Paelle – a rice dish from the Valencian community and one the best known dishes in Spanish cuisine. It was being sold as fast as it was being made and they even had bouncers to keep people in line. Over a hundred delicatessens lured customers with their amazing range of fine foods and free samples were offered as you walked past the stalls.

People were enjoying their food on stadium like rows of benches. We first thought they were watching some show. It turned out that was sitting and eating accommodation. We not only had our lunch at the market, we had a great dessert as well – a humble crumble which had an apple base topped with biscuit crumble and cream. Borough Markey is a very unique experience and it’s a veritable heaven on Earth for foodies.

On our last night in London, we played ‘Monopoly’, something we had been wanting to do right from the night we arrived. Meera was not very enthusiastic about this business of buying and selling but ended up owning stations and streets. I think she was quite happy when Aruna had to leave midway and so was eagerly helpful in putting things away and closing shop.

We had had such a wonderful time together – hum saat saath they – it was sad to part. The morning of our departure saw hugs and Thank Yous and See Yous and Take Cares. Arjun and family took the train to Paris, Aruna left for SFO and Ashwin and we headed home.

It was a marvelous holiday, one that I will remember as long as my memory is intact.