South India Temple Trip

I had only expressed a desire to see Srirangam because my mother was born there. As it turned out, we embarked on a south India temple tour – a selected few of course but those few couldn’t have been more inspiring.

            Madurai, as every other Tamil Nadu town, has an air of humidity and an aura of divinity. The Meenakshi temple gopurams were getting a fresh coat of paint and were therefore covered but one could still catch a glimpse of the beautiful colors and the intricate sculpture. The small and big majestic sculptures seemed to magnetize the onlooker even from a distance. Inside, there were serpentine queues. The collective sweat and the dark garbha gudi notwithstanding, we felt we were a wee bit closer to God. The multitude, chatting and chanting, made it a community experience. It was as if, pushing and jostling, we were all bound by and moving towards a common goal. Meenakshi is worshipped first in this temple. The sublime radiance of the fish-eyed goddess standing with a parrot, lasts, though through a haze. Substantiating the legend that Lord Vishnu (Meenakashi’s brother) gives her away to Shiva in marriage are beautiful sculptures in the temple complex. There is a nandi into whose ears the faithful unfold their deepest desires. The hotel we stayed in here had plenty of peacocks in residence too. They flew onto branches or stepped around proudly. A sweeper woman handed us peacock feathers as we strolled without stretching her other hand. One of the many instances of “for you” and humility that we encountered on our trip.

Srirangam, unique for its divine ambience was made memorable partly because of our guide who showed us all there was to see in very good time. We got a splendid glimpse of Lord Ranganatha (Vishnu in recumbent posture) from close quarters. Here, He faces south to protect Vibhishana’s kingdom. An interesting footnote provided by our knowledgeable guide was that the 1^st naivedyan to Lord Ranganatha comprises roti, green gram and butter – in deference to the muslim connection. The priests in most of the temples were most kind and patient, allowing us to see the deity to our heart's content and answering our queries. Things would be different if there was a ‘rush’, I suppose. A small temple in the precincts is dedicated to KalyanaRama. Rama, Seetha, Laxmana and Hanuman had bells on their persons. The priest was a lively person and spoke in a pleasantly familiar tone. Being in God’s presence much of the time hadn’t alienated him from man or robbed him of his jovial nature. He chatted, blessed, even asked paunchy people to become fit. A huge seated Garuda was a very special sight. A small temple with Aandal seen from different angles through mirrors placed behind was very fascinating.

            Walking barefoot in the hot sun in the temple compound, climbing countless steps to reach the sanctum sanctorum, waiting in long lines, enveloped by people of all hues and shapes and having darshan – it was all a re-inforcement of the yatra towards a higher plane.

            The Brihadeeshwara temple (also called The Big temple) in Tanjore is an architectural marvel. Built under the watchful eyes of Raja Raja Chola, this magnificent temple witnesses a unique blend of sculptural excellence and spiritual associations. The extant, extensive inscriptions on the walls narrate the ‘sthala puranam making it historically valid. The Nandi mandapam shelters a 3.7m high, 6m long and 2.5m broad Nandi carved out of stone – the stone for this monolith and other such creations was brought from a distance quarry.

             Kumbakonam was a totally pleasurable experience. We checked into a resort which had an old style ambience – beams across the ceiling Old kind of tiles, swing in the reception and in the middle of the hall in our pannaiyar illam. The resort had an openness to it – cows and calves grazed on the green grass, ducks waddled along and peacocks made their presence heard. The charming tea area was Mantra Tea Kadai, the dining area was Annaprsana and the spa was punar jenma. Very quaint. The TV was placed remotely only in the common area. I suppose the one sofa there was uncomfortable in order to dissuade one from viewing TV when there were so many natural sounds to be enjoyed.

            There are temples aplenty in Kumbakonam. Passing through villages, it was nice to see women busy drying red chilies, men, dhotis doubled up, moving on scooters, opening their shops, calling out to the regulars. Thatched houses vied with slightly more modern abodes for attention.

            Gangai Konda Cholapuram is a replica of the Big Temple of Tanjore in more ways than one. King Rajendra Chola who built it in the 11^th century AD wanted to walk in the footsteps of his father Raja Raja Chola (of the Big Temple fame). Water was brought from River Ganges in a golden pot for the deity purification ritual, hence its name. A massive stone lion with a door between its paws has steps leading to a water storage tank. The Ganges water used to be stored here for the Lord’s abhishekam.  The huge lingam is almost 7m high and is housed inside a 6ft door to avoid forcible removal. In deference to his father, one difference can be seen – the gopuram is less tall. Otherwise, the Nandi is huge as is the lingam. The early morning sunrays are said to be reflected on the lingam inside after falling on the Nandi outside. The temple’s gopuram is not multi-colored as elsewhere but is a pleasant earthy hue. Manicured lawns are dotted with tamarind trees and this is perhaps another feature that distinguishes it from its predecessor. There is a carpeted path to the main temple. It may not be a red carpet welcome to devotees but a welcome, especially in the hot summer months.

            The Darasuram temple is another fine example of Rajendra Chola’s architectural knowhow. We arrive to see a big crowd intently watching the abhishekam of the huge Nandi. Intricate sculptures and carvings on the temple walls are a visitor’s delight. The well maintained lawns are a sight for sore eyes.

   

            The Sarangapani temple – 2000 years old – is a masterpiece of Pallava / Chola architecture. The sanctum sanctorum is in the form of an exquisite wooden temple chariot with elephants and horses. The huge Lord Ranganatha in granite is in a rare half rising and half lying down posture. It is said that he was originally in a recumbent posture. When asked by an alwar if he was tired, the Lord began to get up but stopped when the latter began to sing in his praise. The festival idol holds mace, conch, discus and a bow. There is no main entrance to the sanctum sanctorum. The North and South gates are each open for 6 months.

                 Chakrapani temple is a very important vaishnavite temple. The presiding deity is in a standing posture with a prominent sudarshan chakra. As in the Sarangapani temple there is no main entrance to the sanctum sanctorum. The Ramaswamy temple is adorned with the pattabhishekam Rama. Massive granite idols of Bharatha, Shatrughna, Rama and Lakshmana are awe inspiring. Rama and Seetha are installed on a single pedestal. Hanuman with his veena is a unique representation – the only temple to show him thus. This is the second Rama temple which had the idol of Santana Krishna.

            4Kms from Kumbakonam is the ancient temple of Lord Oppiliappan.  The Lord here can be seen ‘smiling’. His name means one who has eschewed salt. Legend says that sage Markandeya’s daughter Sree Bhoomi Devi was extremely devoted to the Lord. He therefore wanted to marry her. The sage forewarned the Lord and said that since she couldn’t cook, he might have to eat food without salt. Graciously, the Lord is supposed to have said he would eat food prepared without ‘uppu’. Hence the name and hence also, the temple does not use salt in any of its culinary preparations of prasadam which tastes good. Devotees are not allowed to take salt beyond the shrine of Lord Garuda. Lord Mahavishnu here, in a standing pose, is majestic with conch and discus as in Tirumala. On his abhaya hastam is an inscription in diamonds translated into 'I am the only one, surrender to me'. His consort is on his right, kneeling in the marriage posture. There is no separate shrine for her. Corridors with beautiful, colorful sculptures of Gods and Goddesses of the 108 Divya Desams make one lose a sense of time and place.

           The Nachiyar Koil stands in the name of Lord Vishnu's wife. Here, Lord Vishnu and His consort are seen in kalyana kolam. In accordance with the saint Medhavi's wish, Nachiyar stands a step ahead of Perumal. There is a stone idol of Garuda in the temple. The priest explained the speciality of the Garuda idol. During the procession the Lord is carried by Garuda and Nachiyar by annapatchi (swan). Garuda increases in weight as he moves away from the temple and decreases in weight while returning to the temple so that Nachiyar can move faster than the Lord. This is to fulfil the Lord's promise to saint Medhavi that Nachiyar will always be given prominence here. Thirucherai Saranath Temple is a very important Divya Desam on the banks of Cauvery. The diety Lord Vishnu who goes by the name of Saranath is seen here with 5 consorts Sri Devi, Bhoomi Devi, Neela Devi, Mahalakshmi and Saranayaki.

            Unlike other temples, the Chidambaram temple didn’t open at 4PM. We had to wait with a patient group of devotees to be let in. A unique aspect of this Shiva temple is that it houses an important vaishnava sthala which is one of the 108 divya desams. Here, Lord Govindaraja in restful recumbence is believed to be judging the dance competition between Shiva and Durga, which is supposed to have taken place in Chidambaram. We were our own guides here. The big black Ganesha idol in the premises in an absolute grand creation of skilled hands.


             The streets of Kumbakonam were crowded because of the ratha utsavam slated for the next morning. All temples were beautifully lit and the rathams were beautifully decorated. It is said that the idols are merely immersed in the tank and taken back. The tank had people milling around in expectation. The devotion of the people is to seen to be believed.

            Before we departed from Mantra resort, the front desk official gave us kumkum and a blouse piece. There were only men in various positions but they seemed to observe traditions. A coconut was broken in front of our Innova and arati was done for the car for a safe trip for us. This happens only in Tamil Nadu, I thought.

            On our way from Kumbakonam to Kanchi, we passed lush sugarcane and paddy fields. We also were able to admire very many tall and short Hanuman idols. The Kanchi Kamakshi temple has the idol in a sitting posture. The names Kamakshi, Meenakshi and Visalakshi are all based on the term denoting eyes. 'Akshi' means eyes. We had a  good darshan without being told to move forward. We then decided to have a short shopping break. Visit Kanchi and not buy sarees? Kanchi has as many temples as there are saree stores. We visited the Varamahalakshmi saree shop which had a large collection of silk, silk cotton and cotton sarees. We proved to be good customers, I guess, because our saree boxes were kept near Kamakshi’s idol and we were offered manje kumkum. Again, I guess this happens only in Tamil Nadu.

            We had a very satisfying darshan at the Varadaraj Perumal temple. We climbed gold plated steps and touched the golden lizard, Surya and a smaller silver lizard on the ceiling. We had to a reach a raised platform to do so. The Ulagazhanda Perumal - literally meaning one who measures the universe - is an awe inspiring idol 35 feet in height and 24 feet in breadth.  Here, Lord Vishnu gave darshan to Anjaneya as Trivikrama, the left foot raised, Bali’s head under the right foot. It was here that I saw a young mami, kache cheere (9 yard sari) clad, jasmine in long hair, arriving at the temple on a scooter. I loved it. 

           One other incident that will stay in my mind is that of a very crowded street with vehicles parked here, there and everywhere. Our driver couldn’t gauge the position of a cycle on the left side and called out to a random person to check it out. That man, 2 kids in tow, crossed over in front of our car to the other side and then gestured an ok sign. Small town, big courtesies!

            The fervor and devotion of the temple goers is infectious. The architecture, the temple history, the spiritual aura of the place is what makes these temples stand out. The streets, the temples themselves at times leave a lot to be desired but we went at a time when all temples were readying themselves for next year. Hence the painting of the gopurams and the renovation works. Whatever the shortcomings,  the precincts of the temples, the humble though scholarly pujaris, the sculptures, the might of the idols, the chants and the aratis take you into another more serene and spiritual world.

            And of course our vahan chalak. Driving us from Madurai to Chennai, he was a storehouse of information pertaining to the temples and the towns.  Spirited and enthusiastic, he still drove safely. The only time he created panic in me was when in animated monologue, he would use both his arms to gesticulate and make his point. I would breathe again only when atleast one hand rested on the steering wheel.

            I think, finally, and for all of us the temple trip was an uplifting experience. For sure, it didn't weigh us down!