Hyderabad - Tianjin - Hyderabad

We are glad our first trip to China was to a small town of 15 million people and not to a big bustling city.  Our flight from Singapore landed in Beijing on time.

At immigration the long queues moved fast.  We were out in ten minutes, a record of sorts, and a good beginning to our China trip.

Tianjin – the name itself has a dulcet tone to it – is to the Northeast of China.  It is mainly a port city and must have gained notoriety because of the blasts that occurred in a chemical storage facility.  Thankfully, things are getting back to normal but the loss of life and property will continue to haunt minds.

The two and a half hour drive from Beijing to Tianjin was absolutely relaxing.  There is so much greenery on both sides of the express highway and on the median.  Small villages appear all of a sudden with farms showcasing their crops.  The roads are comparable to those in any other developed country.  The only indication of being in China are the signboards. Tianjin’s suburbs extend far and beyond.  It is a cute town in spite of the hundreds of apartments, each designed differently from the other.  There is variety in the style and architecture, but the greenery and the environmental concern has not been sacrificed at the altar of modernity.  On the other hand it is a very welcome co-existence.

Arjun’s house is in a gated community.  Almost all the houses are similar in style and structure (Italian) with perhaps minor variations.  The stone and wood façade and the quaint wooden benches and handrails add to the uniqueness.  A few rows of the look-alike houses are occupied by the expats and the rest by the more affluent Chinese.  It is a walker’s paradise because of the tiled paths that go all along the front of the houses.  Meera and her friends converted it into a cyclist’s paradise.

There is abundant and amazing lung space in Tianjin, as in all China, I’m sure. Parks and gardens with their roses and chrysanthemums greet and cheer you along.  Lakes and tall trees ( I have never seen such a profusion of ‘weeping willows’ anywhere else.  They brought smiles to our eyes) and manicured flower beds make your day every day.  

The ‘Water Park’, which is a short distance from Arjun’s house, has amazing rock sculptures. It is the largest park in Tianjin with three lakes and nine small islands.  Surrounding the water ways are pathways, pagodas and gardens which showcase both Chinese and European architectural styles.  The water lily pond is a popular attraction.  One can see (as in every other park) senior citizens having an enjoyable time with or without their grand kids.  They are either playing Mahjong, or indulging in Tai Chi ( which had its origins in self- defence  but was later recognised as a stress buster)or performing the slow and graceful fitness dance exercises like line dancing or entertaining themselves and others with their orchestral skills or just sitting on benches, looking at the lakes and drinking in the breeze. No dearth of options there! It is an amazing experience to see the goldie oldies enjoying life.  We were there on a muggy day but there were many joyous things to negate that.  Of course the heat made some men pull up their shirts all the way to the shoulders – they feel that heat will escape from the stomach.

The TV tower, 400m high, is close to the water park and reminds one of the CN tower of Canada.  There is a revolving restaurant which completes a circle every 50 minutes.  The interesting thing is that the lake on which the TV tower stands freezes in winter and doubles as a skating rink.

The China House merits more than a glance.  It is said that Porcelain collector Zhang Lianzhi, also owner and designer, turned a French style old building into a showcase of porcelain with more than 700 million pieces.  The museum is a most intriguing piece of architecture in Tianjin municipality.  In addition to the awesome porcelain sculptures, snake-like facade, benches, and walls, it has antique furniture on its five floors, cordoned off for security.

The People’s Park has a small waterbody with self- pedalling boats for kids – it was fun watching kids manoeuvring their boats and colliding with other boats.  There is also a big lake where you can hire your own boat and pedal it around. Binita and Kuppu pedalled, Meera steered the wheel obeying Kuppu’s instructions and I took over from them now and then.  The arches under which you could guide your boat and the scenery around were a delight. In the park you could see couples dancing in one area, others playing games in one corner, small groups playing diverse musical instruments in harmony or just sitting around enjoying themselves.  The pavilions reverberated with songs and one could see people grooving to their tunes.  I think one can grow old healthily and happily in Tianjin.

The park that fascinated us most was the Central park.  The garden with its beckoning benches and lovely bushes is surrounded by a street which becomes a matrimonial hub every Saturday.  A large number of parents come with relevant details about their marriageable sons/daughters which they place on benches in front of them or give to agents who do the same.  It is amazing to see sheets of papers on umbrellas, rocks, benches – interested parents peer here, there, everywhere wondering if something will ‘click’ and if a match can be made.  Hundreds walk on the street with purposeful steps while so many more sit with ‘detailed’ biodatas of their wards.  People who have migrated from villages also go through this important ritual. For us it was a matchless experience.

The concession areas in Tianjin are a riveting part of its history.  After the Peking Convention of 1860, it is said extra territoriality was granted to France and England who established their own concession areas for trade with China but with their own country’s import laws.  This concession was later extended to Germany, Italy, Hungary, etc.  So the majority of the river-front area of downtown Tianjin was subject to foreign control (of a different kind) and the natural construction of schools, hospitals and barracks took place.  These areas were occupied by merchants and diplomatic populations of Tianjin until the end of WW II.  Concession areas still stand firm today, offering insight into Tianjin’s recent past.

The Wu Da Dao (dao is a street and the name means 5 avenues) represents the former European Concession areas – 5 roads shape the area which contains a vast array of Euro-architecture villas and gardens.  This area is protected by the local authorities.  Any redevelopment can be taken up only under strict regulation. The villas are numbered with a categorisation number and marked as Important, Very Important, Most Important, and so on.  It is a great place to walk and admire the stately villas while getting a whiff of the old world charm. 

Wu Da Dao is also home to the Minyuan Plaza, originally Minyuan Stadium and built by Eric Liddel – famous Scottish athlete and son of Tianjin (he was born and raised there) whose story of running in the 1924 Paris Olympics was immortalized in the movie “Chariots of Fire”. Modeled on the Stamford Bridge football stadium in London – Eric Liddell’s favorite stadium and home to Chelsea FC – it was once the home stadium to Tianjin’s own football team. Now, it is a walking plaza with grassy field, a replica running track along its perimeter and surrounded by boutique stores and restaurants.   

Horse drawn carriages are ready and available outside the plaza to take you along the Wu Da Dao (the horses have receptacles to collect their droppings – the diapers of the horses, according to Meera).  The neat roads and foot paths are a sight for sore eyes.  We enjoyed the ride and were our own guide.  

The Italian Style Town is another must see.  Once the Italian Concession Area, The Marco Polo statue and Dante square with Dante’s statue take us into a bygone era. The Italian food we had here was truly Italian. Most restaurants in China do not serve ‘cold’ water or ‘cold’ juices (room temp. is a ‘given’) because they feel it is not good for health. You have to ask for it. Just as when  chop sticks were kept on our plates in restaurants, we asked for forks – ignorant folks, you see!

We took an open top bus here which took us around Tianjin.  The designer bridges, the gardens, the old style buildings alongside modern apartments, the lakes , the sights kept us absorbed and clicking. The Ferris wheel over the Yongle Bridge boasts a 110 m highest point. It is supposed to be the only F.W built on a bridge.  It is called the Tianjin Eye – reminiscent of the London Eye.

There are many malls milling with shoppers and foodies. Some malls are extravagant, and some normal.  One of them has a skating rink too. The different levels and the variety of brands available are mind boggling. 

The antique street comes alive on Thursdays with a display of innumerable hues of beads and gems.  It is an awesome experience seeing an entire covered quadrangle, with rows of vendors displaying their wares under one roof, selling every quality of beads, pearls, jades, corals.  The blues and greens and oranges are bedazzling.  Even if you don’t empty your pockets, moving from one pile to another can fill your heart with a sense of  wonder.  Haggling is normal here.,  But you can be sure you won’t be short-changed.  Honesty is something you confront everywhere and an offshoot of it is the feeling of safety you experience.

One doesn’t have to go to Beijing to experience a slice of history – The Great Wall Of China.  Tianjin has a good piece of that magnificence, located a good 2 hour drive North of the city.  We are glad we saw the impressive wonder here and didn’t decide to go to Beijing and be overwhelmed by the crowds. Binita and Meera stayed back as they had already been up there earlier.  What a sight the wall was from a distance, straightening and winding on the precipitous mountain ranges.  

Most people go up to the beginning of the climb in a vehicle as we did.  Then on, the huffing and puffing started. Arjun was the only one breathing normally.  Climbing steps (Kuppu counted 250 steps each way) walking the ramps gingerly, we saw people taking water breaks or just resting their feet or looking at others sweating it out.  The Wall and the watch- towers have stood the test of time, with regular maintenance.  The stress and strain we underwent was all worth it when we reached the Wall. Frankly we felt we had made a conquest.And the competition we had had! A toddler wearing sunglasses was running merrily and a pet dog also seemed to have enjoyed the awesome climb. At the top, on cloud nine,  It was time for photos and marvelling at the wall and beyond.

Hungry after the ordeal we ate at this place which the owner lady said was purely vegetarian but which we found also served every kind of meat with gusto. Say veg  food in China and you will have at least one dish of brinjal.  There was this couple at the adjoining table who’d been eyeing us for some time and who finally gathered courage and having said something incomprehensible stood behind us for a photo.  Our feeling of elation was short lived (fortunately, the picture had been clicked) because as soon as white foreigners came, all attention shifted to them. Earlier also we thought a couple wanted  us to take their photo but turned out they wanted  a ‘selfie’ with us. (No white in sight this time!) Selfie sticks are very popular with photo shooters.

 The Drum Tower,   which forms the center of many old Chinese cities and houses signal drums that were used for communication in the ancient days, is also part of old Tianjin and well preserved. Long streets with shops set to old architectural styles extend on all four sides of the tower.  Tianjin also has an Ancient Culture Street, which also preserves/recreates the city’s ancient architecture, and is typically more crowded with shoppers than the drum tower area. Walking along the street gave us a chance to practice our bargaining skills across language barriers, and we were able to come away with only slightly overpriced knickknacks.  

The traffic in Tianjin is quite disciplined on the broad roads except for the fact that scooterists and cyclists enjoy an unwritten concession. They happily   ignore the red light and the road users don’t see red either.  No petrol guzzling two-wheelers are allowed on city streets - only bicycles or electric two wheelers. There are other measures implemented to combat the scourge of pollution- like  prohibiting cars with license plates ending with specific numbers on each day of the work week (e.g. cars with license plates ending with 1 and 6 are prohibited on Mondays; those ending with 2 and 7 on Tuesdays etc.)  On high pollution days, or if the government wants to clean up the air before important public events, cars with license plates ending on even and odd numbers alternate every day of the week. Public transport is very good with a large fleet of buses and a well-connected metro rail system.

Go to China and not see Tiananmen Square?  We went to Beijing by the superfast train and reached our destination in half an hour, travelling on an average speed of 300 kmph (as was indicated in the digital display in the compartment).  The broad roads and greenery of Tianjin are replicated here.  T. Square was milling with people the day we went.  Unbelievable crowds made their way to where they wanted with their hats and umbrellas protecting them from the unrelenting heat.  Long lines moved to get a glimpse of Mao’s  mausoleum.

Part of the square was cordoned off in readiness for the September 3 parade – a celebration of the 70^th anniversary of surrender of Japan to the allied forces of which China is a member.  A replica of ‘The Great Wall’ was being put in place. People were enjoying shooting selfies and posing with their friends unmindful of the weather condition.

The Forbidden City (Palace of the Emperors) is a study in vastness. It was a test of our energy stamina and patience. Moving from outer court yard to the inner  to the innermost, jostling with crowds, climbing umpteen steps to admire the rooms and contents-this was an unforgettable  experience. Huge sculptures of lions seemed to be guarding the palace at vantage points. Such sculptures are also seen outside government buildings and important structures .Vast granite monolith carvings were impressive.  Everywhere in the palace the emperor had special path/steps for himself while the nobles and ministers took side steps – no side stepping was allowed of course.  The grandeur of the Emperor’s palace, the large court yards, the innumerable offices, the blues, greens, yellows and the reds painted on the ceilings and doors were mind boggling.  One has to see it to be enchanted.

The Temple of Heaven is a 3 tiered dome where Emperors used to worship twice a year for  a good harvest and for the wellbeing of the people.  Only men were allowed here.  Now it is non-functional as a place of worship  but functional in a different way.  The long passages that lead to the dome become veritable card-playing areas.  When we were there, about 10 to 12 groups of senior citizens were playing cards.  Chinese chess is also popular with the people who haunt these places to while away their time.

The Summer Palace or Imperial Gardens are a visual delight – canals and lakes are a hub of human activity, boating is popular.  Decorated Dragon Boats ferry tourists across the lake.  A boat made of marble used by the emperor and the empress during their summer sojourn to the garden sits in the lake in all its alabaster grandeur.  People are seen picnicking or lazing under the centuries -old trees without strewing any garbage around. We are told that this palace was one of the two that was completely destroyed during skirmishes with British and French forces stationed in China but was restored to its original grandeur while the other was left in its ruined state to remind the people of the havoc caused by the occupying armies.

I think we came away with a very positive view of China.  The respect shown to nature, the joi de vivre  seen in senior citizens, the desire to keep the historic past intact but also to move towards modernity, the reverence for history and traditions (which is why old structures are preserved/renovated), the work ethic, the enjoyment of life and the beauty of the city -  it was all so refreshing. Yes.  Learn to speak Chinese, and use chopsticks and you will have a whale of time anywhere in China. 

Pondicherry Trip

Our trip to Pondicherry (fondly called Pondy by many) was a surprise gift for our wedding anniversary by our dear ones. 

At the airport, waiting to catch the flight to Chennai, we saw many ladies in gorgeous sarees and jewels, obviously dressed to kill to reach some function hall from the Chennai airport itself. I wondered if the lady standing alone, bejeweled, flowers in her hair, and all the trappings of a newly wed, was the bride. How cruel to leave a lady (in all her finery) to bear the stares of all and sundry. 

Chennai was, as expected, humid. We had to wait long for a taxi - till the driver with all his papers intact (we would be out of Tamil Nadu) was assigned to us. Dressed in white, he turned out to be a colourful personality. When we asked him how many hours it would take to reach Pondy, he nonchalantly said 'If we go normal it'll be 3 hours otherwise 4 - 4.5 hours'. So his normal was our abnormal - rash and speedy! We said 'Normal', and relieved, he showed his motoring skills in all their splendour. He used both lanes without any partiality weaving in and out with elan, overtaking every vehicle in his path. But yes, we were in Pondy in 3 hours.

Our hotel was a majestic sight - a colonial building converted for tourists. It boasted a typical French (quarter) architecture. A walk, later in the evening, through the streets of the French quarter was interesting. we saw old colonial houses with their regulation balconies and arched gates probably leading to beautiful gardens. We were told there were still a large number of French families residing there. Their houses are painted yellow to distinguish them from Ashram houses which were grey. The hotel was a pebble's throw from the sea, so a walk along the beach was almost a 'given'. Before 6PM the breeze can be heavy and hot. Later, walking on the wide promenade can be a pleasure. People of all ages - babies to grandpas - seemed to enjoy the freedom of walking without traffic woes (no traffic is allowed along the beach after 6PM) and it was as if Sunday was an 'enjoy yourself' day for the Pondians.

The much anticipated visit to Auroville was 'dampened' by the heat and the humidity. Our timing was hopelessly awry because the afternoon sun beat on us mercilessly. Going to 'Matru Mandir' (walking more than a kilometer in torturous weather conditions) was a test of strength, will power and stamina. We covered our heads with what little protection we had but we could actually feel the sweat travelling down our hair and down our spines. We were completely drenched in sweat by the time we reached the destined place.  

Kuppu who was actually reluctant to make the trek at first was the one who avidly went up to the Mandir. We couldn't go inside as we were not given a pass, so we stared at the dome from the outside. Kuppu collected quite a bit of information about the Mandir. We joked that Kuppu would get distinction ('1st in 1st' as our heroes in movies do) if there were a Matru Mandir exam while we, enjoying the little breeze that came our way would only get pass marks. We were all truly 'done in' by this time, but fortunately could get back to the starting point in a bus. We could empathize with a girl who was just coming as we were leaving. We heard her desperate cries  'Tissue, anyone? Water, anyone?'.

The Ganesha temple we visited was something unique and amazing. The temple walls had Ganesha replicas from all over the world - by name. The ceilings were colourfully painted with scenes from Ganesha's life. There was one never-before-seen sculpture of brotherly bonding - Ganesha and Karthikeyan, together, on the peacock. The sculptures all over the temple and the impassioned crowds made it an out of this world experience. 

We went to a chocolate shop, with an exotic name Zuka, which had butterflies stuck all over the ceiling. We were told they were all made of chocolate, we had never seen anything like this before. 

The Aurobindo Ashram demands absolute silence from visitors. As we made our way to the Samadhi we saw breathtakingly colourful flowers in pots to our left and right. Sadly, cameras were not allowed. Men and women were meditating in one part of the Ashram, and we also stood in silence for one brief moment. The Samadhi was also covered with flowers which were lovingly and constantly being watered and kept fresh. On our way out, when I enquired at the Ashram library if there were pictures of the flowers they lady in charge looked disgustedly at me as if I had committed a sacrilege - 'We only have pictures of Sri Aurobindo and the Mother' she said. 

We enjoyed the hotel food, local pizza (the spinach touch was good) and regular thalis at the crowded eateries - all without facing any gastric problems! 

June 6th has come and gone but the memories are here to stay. 

Leela's 80th Birthday

Memories are made of funny, droll moments – and moments were aplenty with Leela stepping into her 80s.

     We were all sitting casually in Anu’s tastefully done drawing room – each doing her (there was only one 'his' in the room) thing. Leela was glued to the TV as was her wont, Anu had eyes only for her ipad, Seetha was upping her news quotient and I was twiddling my thumbs. Our protagonist Jay was busy on his smart phone, answering self-scripted queries. Suddenly, in all earnestness, he looked up and asked 'Anu, what is my favorite color?' Did we all enjoy that – and was Jay discomfited. And Anu’s quizzical look 'you should know your favorite color' made the whole episode funnier.

The IPL matches brought out the athleticism in us. The room itself would turn into an arena of sorts. If Bangalore started the game on the wrong foot, Leela would sprint to her bedroom and take solace in whatever serial was airing. If Hyderabad began fumbling and crumbling, I’d just run – any direction was welcome!

The ever mounting, never-ending 'Hum Paanch' (Rukma Vilas sisters) photo sessions encountered opposition from the 'Hum Dono' (brothers in arms) who posed for quite a few pictures just to get "even" – but that would never happen because we would always be "odd".

Nikhil, Vidya's Prince of Wales, greeted his grandma first all the  way from USA but his face was lost in the indistinctness of the screen and his voice was lost in an audio glitch. We were still sympathizing with his 'love's labor lost' when Akshay made up for it by his studied intonation of Kannada in american accent – he was endearingly hilarious

'Haider' (based on Hamlet) became a 'To see or not to see' experience. All of us had gathered to watch it for the 1st or 2nd or 3rd time. But the DVD seemed to have a mind of its own. Everyone pitched in with instructions, remedial measures and indulged in pressing of knobs followed by a roomful of sighs. Finally after all the hits, misses, the screen came alive (or should I say dead because of the Shakespearean bodies strewn all over). We got involved in the proceedings but the DVD had the last word. It went blank. We just couldn't see the final scene.

Leela was sifting through the congratulatory cards when she chanced upon one from her heartthrob Ranveer Singh. The uncrossed stamp in the envelop should have given the game away – but Leela was in a trance and Vidya insisted the cover had been 'handed' over to her by Ranveer's friend. One should have seen Leela blush a delectable pink as she read his message courtesy our fertile imagination! I guess she knew she'd been had – but I also think that card made her day. Leela has preserved the card – a keepsake!

The umpteen number of visits to the vegetable and fruit markets, snack centers, dry cleaners, malls – it was enjoyable to be part of this 'outgoing' band of women who had ample time on their hands despite the absence of watches.

Leela felt absolutely embarrassed to have her feet washed by her lovely daughters – part of the Puja ritual. Her feeble protest was quickly squashed but she was absolutely awkward when pushed into the limelight like this, knowing that 1000's of eyes were on her, watching the washing! After Ranveer's card this was the second occasion when she turned 'pink'.

Calling Senthil - the man friday - on all days and at any time was also a ritual of sorts. Every time the meter tipped, our short, shorts clad stocky help would saunter in, pull the ladder, stand on the top rung, do the needful with the meter, and put things away until the next call - it seemed as if Senthil said 'let there be light' and there it was!

At Eagleton (the high end golf enclave) where we neither teed nor putted, we went visiting a relative's house. The Spanish villa style bungalow enthralled us. We went in, up the stairs, and wanting to enter the inviting balcony, I walked right into the glass door. Nose, specs, chin - all went into damage mode. Adding insult to injury, my slippers decided to fall apart. That really made my/me trip! 

Our piercing eyes spotted a small lizard in one of the 2 lifts. That gave Anu the jitters (not that I wanted to pet it) so we would always take the other lift where also we felt we saw the critter. The lizard must have had a rocking time going up and down 6 floors - we also rocked and swayed but due to an icky feeling.

One evening we were talking about the sartorial habits of one of our uncles and we were trying to outdo one another in praising him when a voice piped in. Someone in an 'I knew him well' tone ventured', 'woh hamesha dhobi ke kapde pehenthe the!' How we burst into peals of laughter imagining our uncle wearing ‘dhobi ke kapde’ rather than ‘istri ke kapde’. Kumar's guffaw was, of course, heard worldwide.

There would have been more memorable moments but alas! I had to make my 'movement' back home. However if you see me smile or see the twinkle in my eye you will know that I am reliving one of those moments.

Glossary:

Anu - Leela's beautiful daughter - belongs to US!!

Viday - Leela's younger lovely daughter - she also belongs to US!!

Jay - Anu's husband - loves to live in the US

Seetha - Leela's sister

Leela - The Aries lady of the house in 'Capricorn' apartments and the birthday baby at 80

Kumar - The chief guest at Leela's wedding. A fun loving cousin, came all the way from Hyderabad like I did.

I - Leela's sister. Also Seetha's sister.

South India Temple Trip

I had only expressed a desire to see Srirangam because my mother was born there. As it turned out, we embarked on a south India temple tour – a selected few of course but those few couldn’t have been more inspiring.

            Madurai, as every other Tamil Nadu town, has an air of humidity and an aura of divinity. The Meenakshi temple gopurams were getting a fresh coat of paint and were therefore covered but one could still catch a glimpse of the beautiful colors and the intricate sculpture. The small and big majestic sculptures seemed to magnetize the onlooker even from a distance. Inside, there were serpentine queues. The collective sweat and the dark garbha gudi notwithstanding, we felt we were a wee bit closer to God. The multitude, chatting and chanting, made it a community experience. It was as if, pushing and jostling, we were all bound by and moving towards a common goal. Meenakshi is worshipped first in this temple. The sublime radiance of the fish-eyed goddess standing with a parrot, lasts, though through a haze. Substantiating the legend that Lord Vishnu (Meenakashi’s brother) gives her away to Shiva in marriage are beautiful sculptures in the temple complex. There is a nandi into whose ears the faithful unfold their deepest desires. The hotel we stayed in here had plenty of peacocks in residence too. They flew onto branches or stepped around proudly. A sweeper woman handed us peacock feathers as we strolled without stretching her other hand. One of the many instances of “for you” and humility that we encountered on our trip.

Srirangam, unique for its divine ambience was made memorable partly because of our guide who showed us all there was to see in very good time. We got a splendid glimpse of Lord Ranganatha (Vishnu in recumbent posture) from close quarters. Here, He faces south to protect Vibhishana’s kingdom. An interesting footnote provided by our knowledgeable guide was that the 1^st naivedyan to Lord Ranganatha comprises roti, green gram and butter – in deference to the muslim connection. The priests in most of the temples were most kind and patient, allowing us to see the deity to our heart's content and answering our queries. Things would be different if there was a ‘rush’, I suppose. A small temple in the precincts is dedicated to KalyanaRama. Rama, Seetha, Laxmana and Hanuman had bells on their persons. The priest was a lively person and spoke in a pleasantly familiar tone. Being in God’s presence much of the time hadn’t alienated him from man or robbed him of his jovial nature. He chatted, blessed, even asked paunchy people to become fit. A huge seated Garuda was a very special sight. A small temple with Aandal seen from different angles through mirrors placed behind was very fascinating.

            Walking barefoot in the hot sun in the temple compound, climbing countless steps to reach the sanctum sanctorum, waiting in long lines, enveloped by people of all hues and shapes and having darshan – it was all a re-inforcement of the yatra towards a higher plane.

            The Brihadeeshwara temple (also called The Big temple) in Tanjore is an architectural marvel. Built under the watchful eyes of Raja Raja Chola, this magnificent temple witnesses a unique blend of sculptural excellence and spiritual associations. The extant, extensive inscriptions on the walls narrate the ‘sthala puranam making it historically valid. The Nandi mandapam shelters a 3.7m high, 6m long and 2.5m broad Nandi carved out of stone – the stone for this monolith and other such creations was brought from a distance quarry.

             Kumbakonam was a totally pleasurable experience. We checked into a resort which had an old style ambience – beams across the ceiling Old kind of tiles, swing in the reception and in the middle of the hall in our pannaiyar illam. The resort had an openness to it – cows and calves grazed on the green grass, ducks waddled along and peacocks made their presence heard. The charming tea area was Mantra Tea Kadai, the dining area was Annaprsana and the spa was punar jenma. Very quaint. The TV was placed remotely only in the common area. I suppose the one sofa there was uncomfortable in order to dissuade one from viewing TV when there were so many natural sounds to be enjoyed.

            There are temples aplenty in Kumbakonam. Passing through villages, it was nice to see women busy drying red chilies, men, dhotis doubled up, moving on scooters, opening their shops, calling out to the regulars. Thatched houses vied with slightly more modern abodes for attention.

            Gangai Konda Cholapuram is a replica of the Big Temple of Tanjore in more ways than one. King Rajendra Chola who built it in the 11^th century AD wanted to walk in the footsteps of his father Raja Raja Chola (of the Big Temple fame). Water was brought from River Ganges in a golden pot for the deity purification ritual, hence its name. A massive stone lion with a door between its paws has steps leading to a water storage tank. The Ganges water used to be stored here for the Lord’s abhishekam.  The huge lingam is almost 7m high and is housed inside a 6ft door to avoid forcible removal. In deference to his father, one difference can be seen – the gopuram is less tall. Otherwise, the Nandi is huge as is the lingam. The early morning sunrays are said to be reflected on the lingam inside after falling on the Nandi outside. The temple’s gopuram is not multi-colored as elsewhere but is a pleasant earthy hue. Manicured lawns are dotted with tamarind trees and this is perhaps another feature that distinguishes it from its predecessor. There is a carpeted path to the main temple. It may not be a red carpet welcome to devotees but a welcome, especially in the hot summer months.

            The Darasuram temple is another fine example of Rajendra Chola’s architectural knowhow. We arrive to see a big crowd intently watching the abhishekam of the huge Nandi. Intricate sculptures and carvings on the temple walls are a visitor’s delight. The well maintained lawns are a sight for sore eyes.

   

            The Sarangapani temple – 2000 years old – is a masterpiece of Pallava / Chola architecture. The sanctum sanctorum is in the form of an exquisite wooden temple chariot with elephants and horses. The huge Lord Ranganatha in granite is in a rare half rising and half lying down posture. It is said that he was originally in a recumbent posture. When asked by an alwar if he was tired, the Lord began to get up but stopped when the latter began to sing in his praise. The festival idol holds mace, conch, discus and a bow. There is no main entrance to the sanctum sanctorum. The North and South gates are each open for 6 months.

                 Chakrapani temple is a very important vaishnavite temple. The presiding deity is in a standing posture with a prominent sudarshan chakra. As in the Sarangapani temple there is no main entrance to the sanctum sanctorum. The Ramaswamy temple is adorned with the pattabhishekam Rama. Massive granite idols of Bharatha, Shatrughna, Rama and Lakshmana are awe inspiring. Rama and Seetha are installed on a single pedestal. Hanuman with his veena is a unique representation – the only temple to show him thus. This is the second Rama temple which had the idol of Santana Krishna.

            4Kms from Kumbakonam is the ancient temple of Lord Oppiliappan.  The Lord here can be seen ‘smiling’. His name means one who has eschewed salt. Legend says that sage Markandeya’s daughter Sree Bhoomi Devi was extremely devoted to the Lord. He therefore wanted to marry her. The sage forewarned the Lord and said that since she couldn’t cook, he might have to eat food without salt. Graciously, the Lord is supposed to have said he would eat food prepared without ‘uppu’. Hence the name and hence also, the temple does not use salt in any of its culinary preparations of prasadam which tastes good. Devotees are not allowed to take salt beyond the shrine of Lord Garuda. Lord Mahavishnu here, in a standing pose, is majestic with conch and discus as in Tirumala. On his abhaya hastam is an inscription in diamonds translated into 'I am the only one, surrender to me'. His consort is on his right, kneeling in the marriage posture. There is no separate shrine for her. Corridors with beautiful, colorful sculptures of Gods and Goddesses of the 108 Divya Desams make one lose a sense of time and place.

           The Nachiyar Koil stands in the name of Lord Vishnu's wife. Here, Lord Vishnu and His consort are seen in kalyana kolam. In accordance with the saint Medhavi's wish, Nachiyar stands a step ahead of Perumal. There is a stone idol of Garuda in the temple. The priest explained the speciality of the Garuda idol. During the procession the Lord is carried by Garuda and Nachiyar by annapatchi (swan). Garuda increases in weight as he moves away from the temple and decreases in weight while returning to the temple so that Nachiyar can move faster than the Lord. This is to fulfil the Lord's promise to saint Medhavi that Nachiyar will always be given prominence here. Thirucherai Saranath Temple is a very important Divya Desam on the banks of Cauvery. The diety Lord Vishnu who goes by the name of Saranath is seen here with 5 consorts Sri Devi, Bhoomi Devi, Neela Devi, Mahalakshmi and Saranayaki.

            Unlike other temples, the Chidambaram temple didn’t open at 4PM. We had to wait with a patient group of devotees to be let in. A unique aspect of this Shiva temple is that it houses an important vaishnava sthala which is one of the 108 divya desams. Here, Lord Govindaraja in restful recumbence is believed to be judging the dance competition between Shiva and Durga, which is supposed to have taken place in Chidambaram. We were our own guides here. The big black Ganesha idol in the premises in an absolute grand creation of skilled hands.


             The streets of Kumbakonam were crowded because of the ratha utsavam slated for the next morning. All temples were beautifully lit and the rathams were beautifully decorated. It is said that the idols are merely immersed in the tank and taken back. The tank had people milling around in expectation. The devotion of the people is to seen to be believed.

            Before we departed from Mantra resort, the front desk official gave us kumkum and a blouse piece. There were only men in various positions but they seemed to observe traditions. A coconut was broken in front of our Innova and arati was done for the car for a safe trip for us. This happens only in Tamil Nadu, I thought.

            On our way from Kumbakonam to Kanchi, we passed lush sugarcane and paddy fields. We also were able to admire very many tall and short Hanuman idols. The Kanchi Kamakshi temple has the idol in a sitting posture. The names Kamakshi, Meenakshi and Visalakshi are all based on the term denoting eyes. 'Akshi' means eyes. We had a  good darshan without being told to move forward. We then decided to have a short shopping break. Visit Kanchi and not buy sarees? Kanchi has as many temples as there are saree stores. We visited the Varamahalakshmi saree shop which had a large collection of silk, silk cotton and cotton sarees. We proved to be good customers, I guess, because our saree boxes were kept near Kamakshi’s idol and we were offered manje kumkum. Again, I guess this happens only in Tamil Nadu.

            We had a very satisfying darshan at the Varadaraj Perumal temple. We climbed gold plated steps and touched the golden lizard, Surya and a smaller silver lizard on the ceiling. We had to a reach a raised platform to do so. The Ulagazhanda Perumal - literally meaning one who measures the universe - is an awe inspiring idol 35 feet in height and 24 feet in breadth.  Here, Lord Vishnu gave darshan to Anjaneya as Trivikrama, the left foot raised, Bali’s head under the right foot. It was here that I saw a young mami, kache cheere (9 yard sari) clad, jasmine in long hair, arriving at the temple on a scooter. I loved it. 

           One other incident that will stay in my mind is that of a very crowded street with vehicles parked here, there and everywhere. Our driver couldn’t gauge the position of a cycle on the left side and called out to a random person to check it out. That man, 2 kids in tow, crossed over in front of our car to the other side and then gestured an ok sign. Small town, big courtesies!

            The fervor and devotion of the temple goers is infectious. The architecture, the temple history, the spiritual aura of the place is what makes these temples stand out. The streets, the temples themselves at times leave a lot to be desired but we went at a time when all temples were readying themselves for next year. Hence the painting of the gopurams and the renovation works. Whatever the shortcomings,  the precincts of the temples, the humble though scholarly pujaris, the sculptures, the might of the idols, the chants and the aratis take you into another more serene and spiritual world.

            And of course our vahan chalak. Driving us from Madurai to Chennai, he was a storehouse of information pertaining to the temples and the towns.  Spirited and enthusiastic, he still drove safely. The only time he created panic in me was when in animated monologue, he would use both his arms to gesticulate and make his point. I would breathe again only when atleast one hand rested on the steering wheel.

            I think, finally, and for all of us the temple trip was an uplifting experience. For sure, it didn't weigh us down!