It was a holiday that we should have taken some months back. But the delay did not dampen the enthusiasm of getting away, albeit briefly, from household chores. Kodaikanal it was, where, fortunately, we did not have to use our kodai.
We flew into Madurai from where we motored to our temporary home away from home. Karthikeyan of our South Indian temple tour fame was our vahan chalak again. But this time, we enjoyed the luxury of his new Toyota. Conversing ceaselessly as was his wont, he deftly navigated the uphill journey. Curves, turns, hairpin bends were aplenty. My hairpins almost got dislodged. After the rough drive, we reached our haven. All the travails of the earlier 60 minutes were forgotten and forgiven. We were at Isla’s Ridge, a space curated by Isla (the owner) up in the Palani Hills. A Belgian born in Kodaikanal, a world renowned artist and a passionate designer, Isla is said to have travelled the world over by finally couldn’t resist the pull of her roots and created this property ensconced in Palani Hills. Isla’s Ridge is her vision, a homestay with a difference.
When we reached our chosen space it was late evening. Flashes of lightning welcomed us as also the unassuming twin bungalows. The manager very courteously and smilingly showed us to our rooms. We stood outside for a while breathing the fresh, cool breeze while he casually cautioned us against stepping out at night as wild boars and bisons would also have the same idea. The forest all around would harbour them during the day. A chill ran down my spine and it was not only because of the air. I wondered, were they intruding on our land or were we on theirs?
The simple yet yummy dinner of noodles soup, sauce, salad and ice cream succeeded in calming my nerves although once back in my room, I kept looking out of the window to see if any creatures were enjoying the quiet and inkiness of the night.
We woke up to a spectacular morning. A&A were up and about early with their cameras and binoculars as their birding instincts were given impetus by the trees and lush foliage all around. We broke our night’s fast at the table under the trees. The cosy sitting area offered a breath taking view of the distant hills and the valleys with the mist. The chirping birds, the refreshing zephyr on our cheeks and the aroma of the spread on the table was a sensuous treat. Home made bread, home made garlic cheese, home made fig jam along with dosa and sambar, piping hot from the kitchen, was divine.
We were not only mesmerized by the pristine, stunning outdoors but were enthralled by the interiors. There was an easy-going casualness about everything in the resort. The dining room was partly taken up by Isla’s unique library. Coffee table books looked at you invitingly from tables. Two almirahs fondly held books in English and French. Artifacts and curios, with an ‘antique’ness attached to them tastefully formed the décor of the room. Antique and traditional objects of art seemed to get along very well with contemporary items. The charming interiors of the rooms seemed to be curated with love and had furniture that was simple yet unusual. I particularly was impressed by a mandapam with Ganesha in a hitherto unseen stance.
Warm and invigorated after the heavenly breakfast, we were ready for Kodai town and also for a repeat of the turns, bends and traffic. We made our way through villages where the spirit of Diwali was palpable. Kids and adults, dressed in festive finery, were equally excited about bursting crackers in the middle of the road, some stopping for us and some getting a thrill from making us stop. Bits of paper strewn all over the streets made us feel at home.
As we sped along, we passed a cute waterfall where, we were told, one of the two Lyril Soap ads were filmed. We made a short nostalgic stop here.
The Silver Cascade was a waterfall descending gracefully in white from stone steps high above. There was a dense crowd indulging in selfies, pics and loud chatting but finally we got a beautiful glimpse of the white waters cascading down a stony hill.
The Kodaikanal Natural Science Museum housed in a small building displayed the skins, bones and skeletons of huge and dreaded animals, kept in the safety of glass shelves.
Our visit to the Pine forest was unforgettable. The tall trees were spread all over a large area and standing near them made us realize how small we were, pitted against nature’s majesty. The roots of the trees, gnarled, entangled and forming a network, seemed to have crawled out of the protective umbrella of the parent and branched out on their own. Standing in one place, we were completely overwhelmed by the expanse and grandeur of the forest.
The Kodai lake was choc-a-bloc with people in pedal boats, enough to deter us from testing the waters. We enjoyed the beauty and vastness of the lake from the shore.
Kodai is home to umpteen shops displaying a boggling variety of chocolates. We had not seen such a mouth-watering combination of irresistible flavours. All the chocolates are locally made with home grown and imported cocoa and a variety of local flavours. I told Satan to ‘get thee behind me’ but he turned a deaf ear and we were lured into buying a few – is there anyone who can resist a chocolate or two? Spices and many varieties of cheese were also very popular tourist purchases. I can say all these sold like hot cakes.
On our ‘ups and downs’ journey, Karthikeyan helped enhance our general knowledge about particular film stars. He pointed out to us sprawling mansions of celebrities. Gemini Ganeshan’s two wives had their separate abodes as also Rajnikanth and Kamal Hasan and Vyjiyanthimala. The 4 Ramraj brothers had their palatial houses in a row. Hidden behind thick and high walls, you could still catch a glimpse of the vast property, a sign of past prosperity, if you strained your neck a bit. One wonders what happens when the house owner passes away. Fights, as in movies?
Back at the resort, we were treated to a sumptuous roast vegetables and toasted bread dinner. The roast veggies dish was spoon licking good. A farm to table philosophy is practised here. With both local and continental flavours, dining here was a culinary delight. It rained a bit but thankfully we were in from our outing. Post dinner, we exulted in the view of the hills, the lights of houses in the valley, flashes from the Diwali crackers. What a divine night! What a serene escape from the worldly noise and humdrum!
On the morning of our departure, we decided to take a walk on the property with our lady host as a guide. The garden with colourful flowers, fresh vegetables and fruits and accompaniments like coriander, mint and ginger is a foodie’s delight. The farm also had animals. Four or five dogs, one of which was very friendly would follow us everywhere. Hens and cows also proudly roamed and grazed around. The owner’s two horses named Potluck and Diamond were handsome. The lady was telling us that if the mother (Potluck) was being petted, the son (Diamond) would immediately neigh as if to say ‘Nay’ it’s my turn now, and at that precise moment, as she petted the mother, the son neighed from where he was. It was such an immediate response as if he knew we were discussing him.
Only one regret – we couldn’t meet Isla as she was on a Bombay to Goa visit. She was born in the same year as I and that would have been a great ice-breaker and conversation piece.
