Andamans

 

Normally, when we hear the word “island”, we imagine a remote, faraway, isolated area, perhaps uninhabited and unwelcoming. But our family holiday destination at the end of 2022, the Andaman Islands, gave it a unique definition. A group of picturesque islands shimmering splendidly in the Bay of Bengal to the east of the Indian mainland, they welcomed visitors unabashedly. Numbering close to 550 islands, only 30 of these are said to be inhabited.

Lush, tropical evergreen forests define much of the landscape. The terrain of the islands is formed of sandstone and limestone. The fauna and flora, both on land and in water, are very special. The luxuriant coconut, palm and betelnut trees, banana plantations as well as the natural fortress of coral reefs are very well protected. Even the dense mangrove forests running along the coastline and forming a distinct barrier of vegetation against the calamities from the sea are under government protection.

Port Blair was our first stop from Chennai. This is the only airport that caters to tourists to the islands. Now called Veer Savarkar airport, there is a strong naval presence here and hence photography in the airport is strictly prohibited. The hotel we stayed in was – welcoming, befitting its name, WelcomHotel. From the reception area, you could see that the sea was almost at the hotel’s doorstep. The heaving, heavy sound of the waves at high tide and the rippling, gurgling sounds at low tide were like music to our ears.

The fresh breeze from the sea hugged the coconut trees before it tugged at our hair. Arjun and Ashwin were happily unruffled. Meera instantly fell in love with the amazing natural scenery and the hotel’s swimming pool and took to it like a fish to water.

On our must-see schedule were Ross Island and the cellular jail. The jetty for Ross Island and the other islands was choc-a-bloc with tourists, all excited to start their adventure. But because of choppy waters, permission was not given to ply the boats. The tour agents had a tough time placating the growing and angry crowds, hot under the collar both because of the heat and the frustration. But the administration is quite strict (and rightly so) and rules were obeyed dutifully. Hopeful cap/hat sellers were tempting the people with their colourful wares. Some people were tempted and decided to spend time and money instead of twiddling their thumbs. We decided to walk to the close by Cellular jail in the interim – the tour agent we had approached seemed to be happy with our non-complaining (Hyderabadi) attitude and said he would call us once things were in place.

The 3 storey cellular jail stands as a mute spectator of the freedom fighting days. As a penal settlement of British rule, the place became known after the 1857 war of Independence. Freedom fighters who, the British feared, would spread rebellion, were imprisoned here and subjected to inhuman torture. Instruments used to subjugate them physically and psychologically so as to keep them dispirited are displayed in a museum. The grim hanging room is a reminder of the violent fate of the brave nationalists. We were shown the long rows of dark, small, dingy cells where the British made sure there was no scope for “verbal” contact and the prisoners remained incommunicado. Two eternal flames near the entrance shed light on the heavy scenario – the only bright spots in this place. 

As we were going up to the second floor to see Savarkar’s cell (which would have been no different from the others on the ground floor except for his photo, perhaps) we got the phone call – the sea was less rough and the permission had been granted.

We walked back to the pier, had our life jackets strapped on, and with consequent minimum mobility, got into the boat via a dangerously floating moving platform. With hands held out for me from all directions. I managed to raise my now wooden legs, hold on to the wooden post and gracelessly plonk myself into the boat. Then on, it was a fun ride to Ross Island. The boat sped fast and the roaring, swirling waters splashing on our backs and faces was not unwelcome and we were yelling in glee like kids.

Ross Island was an unforgettable experience. The headquarters of the penal settlement, Indian freedom fighters were ‘ab’used to clear the dense tropical forest and build a paradise for the British. Clubs, bazaars, bakeries, tennis courts, ballrooms, church, offices were so embellished with all amenities that the place was called “Paris of the East”. Once full of light and life they were later mostly destroyed by natural calamities. One can see these buildings now, many roofless and in the vicious grip of aerial roots of tropical trees. 

The island was occupied by the British during the pre-independence era until they abandoned it in 1941. Everything was overseen from this island including the construction of the cellular jail. The Japanese occupied it in 1942 during World War II. When they came to the island, the Indians were happy and hopeful, little knowing that it would be a worse scenario. The Japanese war bunkers built in concrete and located at strategic points are fairly well preserved.  One of the more hidden bunkers was discovered by Aruna. Once the seat of Colonial power, the sprawling creepers and banyan trees seemed to throttle the life out of the buildings. Some of the oldest British and Japanese structures have survived the vagaries of nature and colonists.

We were glad the electric cars to take people around were not available that day because the long leisurely walk was a better way of seeing the breath-taking architectural ruins. Among these ruins, there’s an almost magical, protected forest, a sanctuary for a variety of birds and animals including peacocks and deer. Under the shade of tall, tropical trees, the friendly, free and fearless animals thrive. We saw not only deer and peacocks but also a rooster (crowing at regular intervals as if to decide on the best tone) and its family.

The island was renamed Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Dweep because the first tricolour on the soil of any part of Indian territory is said to have been hoisted here by Netaji Bose. Many still call it Ross Island, perhaps because Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Dweep can be quite a mouthful. The four-letter name (not word) is easier on the tongue.

It was with a tinge of sadness that we left the picturesque hotel, with its panoramic view of the sea, the frolicking waves, the palm trees swaying in the breeze and just a road between the magical scene and us. How one can become attached to even a temporary abode is a mystery to me.

Havelock Island, the largest of the Andaman Islands, and now called Swaraj Dweep, was a dream destination only accessible by ferry. The jetty again was a sea of humanity. People of all ages were excited at the prospect of cruising to another island.

On the boat, it was such a welcome surprise to enter the Royal Box booked by A&A. Just the 7 of us and comfortable, cushioned seats. Narration of old memories and modes of travel kept us in nostalgic splits as the voyage started. Then the smooth waters suddenly became choppy and the boat seemed to be lifted high by the waves and brought down heavily. The see-saw effect was a bit too much for me and was I sick! Everyone, especially Meera, still remembers the mayonnaise sandwich (served as refreshments) that must have added to the misery.

I must have been the happiest person when we docked. Hundreds spilled out of our boat. Other boats and other people too added to the swelling crowd. All the luggage was laid out neatly on the ground making it easy for people to pick theirs and it was just a short time for identifying our bags and dragging them till the cabs sent by the resort. All of us got in one car and were told the bags would come in another. I think I was relaxed for the first time; instinctively I knew the islanders were trustworthy.

Our resort, Tilar Siro, was special. The name, Tilar Siro comes from the original inhabitants of the Andaman archipelago, the Great Andamanese Tribe, who referred to the island as 'Thi-Lar-Siro', 'Thi' means Earth, 'Lar' means From and 'Siro' means Sea.

We were given a briefing about the resort and what was a novel offer was the free laundering of 6 items of clothing per room per day. All our rooms (two on the ground floor and one on the first floor) were sea-facing. Our large rooms had balconies which made for a good morning coffee nook. Meera was thrilled by the swimming pool, a few steps away from our rooms She taught A&A to float and was quite proud of her role as Guru. If she was not in a mood to get up early, she’d say she was doing ‘ Horizontal Meditation’.

 A very eco-friendly place, the tall luxuriant coconut trees and white sands lined our path from the pool to the beach which was bordered by thick mangrove trees. We had cool walks in the night, when also, because of the unpolluted atmosphere and absolutely clear skies we could see stars and planets and constellations in all their glory from between the canopy of trees. 

We also would wake up early to see the sunrise which illuminated the sea a beautiful pink before it rose in the sky.         

The hammocks on the grass were used to the full by Meera who enjoyed reading her novels on it. Kuppu’s desire to be photographed on one was fulfilled too although his was an awkward climb into it.

The tidal walks were quite an experience. The sea was very shallow and during low tide the water receded quite a bit from the shore. We could see the sand stones and dead corals (rocks) which disappear during hightide.  The hotel would display the sunrise/sunset/high tide/low tide information at the desk with warning flags alerting the people about tide heights. At low tide (normally around 12PM) we could venture quite a distance into the sea. All the stones, covered by the waters at high tide would be exposed and it would be fun wading and sploshing. Meera could venture farther and faster than any of us. Walking on the seabed was an out-of-this world experience.

The restaurant (as well as the rest of the resort) is built on stilts, and the lush vegetation around it was a good hiding and roosting place for birds. Meera looked forward to the breakfast and lunch spreads especially if it was a buffet. She enjoyed seeing, picking and choosing her food.  At times we also went across the road to a restaurant which boasted of, rightly so, excellent cuisine. The service was prompt and we had no complaints, except perhaps for the absence of ACs.

The sunset cruise we took was another memorable experience. We were gingerly lowered into the boat and then life jacketed. The boat took off and the vast expanse of the sea behind us presented a grand picture. The boat almost divided the sea with its white spray and foam. We were able to see coral reefs in the water. We passed Elephant Island, popular for water sports, and Turtle Island before we stopped at the point from where we could get the best view of the majestic sinking sun. The anchor is not thrown for fear of damaging the reefs, buoys are used as an anchor point for the boat. What a view it was from our balcony seats! The dramatic pink and red hues in the blue sky and then the sun dipping into the sea – we savoured the moments. 

The return was fast, furious and thrilling. No wonder we had to fasten our loosened life jackets on the way back. As we disembarked, we heard there was a fire in one of the boats behind us. There was hectic activity and emergency units – police vans, fire engines, and ambulances – all arrived in a jiffy for the rescue operation.

The mangrove walk was another high point of our stay. We had to drive out to the Taj Exotica resort, supposed to be one of the most expensive resorts – far from the madding crowd and exotic, as the name suggests – which had the mangroves behind the hotel itself. Mangrove forests run all along the coastline and form a good barrier of vegetation but for our mangrove walk our guide decided on the mangroves behind the Taj Exotica. Viraj (our guide) was young, well-informed and passionate about probing nature’s wonders. He had a bagful of interesting facts about the forest.  Walking carefully over scattered stones, avoiding tree roots stretching on the ground and braving the balmy heat, we hung on to his words. He showed us spider webs (of a rare kind of spider), resembling a house and its rooms and the female spider which has the upper hand, can retire to the “bedroom” as and when she desires.  We saw trees more than 200 years old and saw umpteen number of crab holes. We learnt that trees communicate with one another through their roots especially when a “disaster” is imminent. The birds and other creatures on the trees also get the warning signal and take necessary steps. All in all, it was a precarious yet precious walk. 

Our guide then led us from the dense mangrove into light – the Radhanagar beach. Recognized as the best beach in Asia by Time magazine in the year 2004, it is still regarded as one of the best beaches in the world and boasts a Blue Flag certification (a prestigious award to state the cleanliness and eco-friendliness of beaches). It is an enormous wide, clean beach, running alongside the wide blue sea.  A large part of the beach was dotted with crab holes and the designs around these holes made by balls of sand by male crabs to attract the females were amazingly intricate.  Awesome work, we agreed, of the ardent, artistic wooers. No one was complaining. It was a spectacular finale to the mangrove walk.

Five out of our party of seven went snorkeling. It doesn’t need a genius to guess who the two who refused the adventure were. Our snorkelers had to fill out papers, sign in a lot of places to exclude any kind of risk to the organizers. We could see them poring over the papers and doing their homework at breakfast time. It was all worth their while because they had a whale of a time under water seeing fishes, coral reefs and snakes. Meera was a bundle of delight when she came back and said “It’s easy and fun, Pati. You and Thatha should come next time”. Those intimidated by snorkeling can have vicarious pleasure in glass bottomed boats or submarine type of boats with portholes to look at marine life.

The resort was readying itself for Christmas when we left. Decorations were in full swing and the place took on a colourful and festive appearance.

Leaving the lovely resort and the lush environs was not easy but pack we did and readied to reach Port Blair. The ferry back, barring tumultuous waves in a few spots, was more comfortable.

The pristine beauty of the place, the lovely beaches, evergreen tropical forests and activities spread over land and water, the shimmering sunrise, the ethereal sunset, the lush vegetation, our exciting activities – all these made our holiday memorable. The staff at the resort were very polite and helpful. Though tourism is the major industry, the islands are conserved by keeping tourists away from certain touristic activities and protecting the lush magnificence and marine life special to this place.

Our week-long stay taught us many lessons – the most important being modernization or development does not mean discarding or crushing the old out of existence. Andaman Islands thrives and looks ahead but not without respecting the feelings of the indigenous tribes and letting them live their way – not without protecting the endemic flora and fauna by banning tourists from any activities that would endanger the precious sea and land gems. Also, the naval presence and the island administration ensures that rules are followed strictly. In Havelock, the key to its popularity fell into our laps.