London

 

I was entering the elegant eighties and a holiday planned by my children seemed like a perfect getaway.

Arjun and family met us in London from Berkeley even as we flew there from Hyderabad. I was filled with trepidation and apprehension regarding the flight especially after the recent Dreamliner’s horrific nightmare. But these fears were assuaged with the pilot’s smooth take off and their silken landing.

Our AirBnB in London was out of this world. Roomy, with cosy furniture, a long reclining sofa, a longer dining table with stove and seating for a dozen people, 3 large bedrooms and a not-so-empty larder. A lovely cupboard with ‘spirit’ed bottles – alas, all empty, arranged neatly greeted us as we entered our abode. Bottles, bottles everywhere, not a drop to drink, some would say. The massive fridge, the well-gadgeted kitchen made our stay very comfortable. We were part of the Wimbledon district but the tennis courts were out of our reach.

The children scoured the neighbourhood for eateries and found we were well equipped even for emergencies.

There was a planned itinerary but nothing so rigid that we couldn’t deviate from it. Well known tourist places co-existed with those that would be our own experiences.

From day 1 we were ready and raring to go. We were blissfully unaware of the number of miles we would be walking, the number of steps we would be ascending and descending and the crowds we would be encountering – all this in the hot English summer which greeted us as we left the hot Indian summer behind us.

The English love to walk and we decided to emulate them in their land.  Walking tours with specific themes and learned guides are popular here. Our first 2 hour walk dealt with the English elite and lower classes as exemplified by Nottinghill and Nottingdale. It was arduous but interesting. Our lady guide’s perspective on piggeries and potteries of the late 18^th century in the worst slums of those days almost made us cover our noses! The slums were so notorious that the area was called the cut-throat lane. Those slums have made way for one of London’s most fashionable and expensive neighbourhoods. A lone surviving ‘bottle’ kiln presents a glimpse into the brick making past.

We climbed a steep hill to see where the rich and famous lived – Nottinghill – and we also saw the garden gate of Nottinghill from the movie of the same name. In the movie, Julia Roberts and Hugh Grant hop over the gate to enter the private garden, which can still be seen inspite of the arch and ivy not being there.

The family made sure I would have literature also served on the holiday platter. ‘Taming of the shrew’ was presented by ‘Shakespeare in the squares’ which took Shakespeare’s timeless plays into gardens and other spaces. A marvellous idea! The play performed in the Queen’s park was delightful. Out in the open, with the heat penetrating our hats, we enjoyed the high energy styles apt for outdoors. Some spectators took refuge under a nearby tree but we Hyderabadis sat on with the sun beating down on us. The actors were also exuberant singers and played their own musical instruments. It was a fine afternoon experience. Akshay joined us here but soon retreated into the shade.

The train journey to Cambridge was through charming countryside. St. Pancreas station from where we took the train is a marvellous architectural building. It’s a world by itself. It’s massive, with shops of every kind – snacks, food, gift articles. The crowds seemed to be enjoying it all when they were not looking for their train timings and platform numbers.

It was again walk time – Cambridge is a different university town altogether. We could see Trinity College only from the outside as it was closed to visitors. Kuppu was excited to be a tiny part of the Ramanujam, Hardy, Newton trinity and legacy. 

Newton’s path-breaking apple tree was in its own special space – not the original tree but a branch from the original is said to have been grafted here. We were also happy as we walked to cheer and clap for the exuberant participants in a race for charity.

The garden in King’s college was open to visitors. So we walked into the esteemed gates and were greeted by a large courtyard with the college buildings on both sides. As we proceeded to the garden, we saw pictures of eminent alumni of the college placed on poles. Well, Kuppu posed with Alan Turning behind him and I, with E. M. Foster. Our day was made!

The garden was beautiful with colourful flowers and trees. A punting activity was going on on the river and we paused on a curved bridge to encourage the punters. Meera loved the place and the sport so much so that we all said she had to study in a London college – so that we could enjoy the lovely sights whenever we wanted to.

The train home was choc-a-bloc with people going to Wimbledon to be first in line for the Queue for the next day’s match. Whether it’s the launch of the Apple iPhone in the US and elsewhere or the 1^st day 1^st show cinema tickets in India, one must compulsorily stand in queue from the previous night itself. Everyone seemed to be excited about getting tickets for the tennis spectacle but soon there was an announcement that there was a problem with the signals on tracks. So, after a wait, we all had to get down and make alternate arrangements to reach our destinations.

Wow! 30^th June had arrived – my birthday! The birthday card had everyone’s heartfelt good wishes and I got a book on ‘Masala Shakespeare’ which shows the affinity between Shakespeare’s art and our cultural forms. The most surprising part of the morning was when A&A gifted me a book with my name on it in bold letters. I had written these stories some 30 years back and had asked A&A to type it out for me - & lo and behold, I got it in a printed form. This was the best birthday gift for me.

The birthday special was a private walking tour, focusing on Dickens and Shakespeare. Our guide, not very young but quite energetic took us through alleys and unseen streets showing us the haunts and locations relevant to the writers’ lives and works. He also spoke about the socio-economic conditions of the day, shedding light on their personal rise through poverty to better status.

It was an almost 2 hour walk the talk. Our guide must have felt tired and he entered a church telling the gentleman there that we were on a walking tour. Then, with a mischievous smile said to us “I wanted to rest my feet”. So did we all.

Our guide reiterated that London provided inspiration to both Shakespeare and Dickens. It stimulated their imagination and provided the backdrop against which many of their memorable scenes were set.

We went along the South bank of River Thames and followed hidden pathways, cobblestone streets and inns which were popular then. As we walked, we passed the very imposing and impressive St. Paul’s Cathedral.

It was a fascinating journey, walking through inn yards and riverside paths that were well known to both Dickens and Shakespeare. We were transported to the London of their days.

The ‘high’light of my birthday was the high tea at The Wolseley in Mayfair, Piccadilly. It was an elegant, welcoming atmosphere we encountered at this restaurant. A classic and classy afternoon tea, it was a light meal of assorted finger sandwiches, pastries, different varieties of cheesecake and scones and a spread of Wolseley collection Teas – English breakfast, Eary Grey, Assam, Yunnan, Jasmine, Chocolate, Caramel, Darjeeling and Green tea. We selected a few of these which came in silver teapots of various sizes and shapes and patterns. The teas were heavenly till the last sip. The snacks came on luxurious silver stands. The table presented a visual and sensuous delight. There was something glamorous about the place, though because of the large number of patrons, the noise level was high. But then, aren’t we used to that?

The Thames River Cruise was again on another hot day. The cruise offers a unique view of its surrounding areas. We were able to see iconic landmarks like the Houses of Parliament, the London Eye and the Shard – a skyscraper known for its distinctive, pointed shape and observation deck. The boat had open air and enclosed decks. We sat on the upper deck for a complete 360 degree view but the heat and the sharp breeze wouldn’t allow us to control our hats or our umbrellas. The commentary was informed and witty. The first half hour is on one boat, then we disembark and have time before taking another boat back. We spent the time walking on the promenade and having ice cream, then again walking on the Tower of London bridge. Once bitten twice shy, so on our return, we sat on the lower deck. Binita and Meera bravely went up again. It was an afternoon well spent and we experienced the beautiful and historic River Thames.

After the cruise, we visited the British Museum. As expected, the place was overflowing with tourists and locals. One can experience the cultures of the globe from the dawn of humanity to the present. For that, time and patience are required. We made our way to the Greece, Rome, Assyria and Egypt galleries and had a glimpse of their huge stone tablets with inscriptions and other artifacts of these ancient civilizations. Some sections were closed for renovation but even then, it will easily take 2 to 3 full days for a complete museum walk. Our skill in ‘making our way’ was tested to the full.

Our trip to Bath was very special. The train took us to this world heritage site through picturesque countryside. Bath is a very pretty town.

The Roman baths along with the gym and other areas in use then were amazing. Our audio guides made it easy for us to understand and appreciate the various treasures unearthed over the past 300 years.

The natural spectacle of hot springs which were supposed to have healing powers and the supply of hot and cold water to the bathing facilities was a marvel in itself. The whole process was very well explained.

Some of the most interesting exhibits were the Bath curse tablets, dating from the 2^nd to 4^th century AD – a collection of ancient Roman era curse tablets in 1979/80 at the Roman Baths. These were personal prayers on thin lead or pewter sheets that were thrown into the sacred springs dedicated to Goddess Minerva, seeking redressal for injustice. Suspected thieves of stolen items, the tablets are believed to have said, should be made to suffer, punished until the stolen property was returned. This showed the faith of ordinary people seeking redress through divine intervention for personal grievances, especially theft. These are valuable artifacts written with a desire for vengeance and justice. Our curses do not require tablets – they are directed at the perpetrator in person, loudly and with appropriate expression and gestures. God helps only those who help themselves so we carry out our revenge to its bitter end. The Bath curse tablets have been recognized by UNESCO as part of their Memory of the World UK register highlighting their cultural and historical significance.

Bath is not only famous for its Roman Baths, though that is the main attraction, but also for the 5 years that the English novelist Jane Austen lived here. The excitement and bustle of the city fascinated her. Her novel ‘Persuasion’ was written here. Bath had a great influence on her writing. The social customs of the day inspired her and the themes of money, marriage and social mobility in her novels still resonate with us.

It is unfortunate that her name did not appear on her books (the well known being ‘Pride and Prejudice’ and ‘Sense and Sensibility’) during her lifetime. Writing was not considered a respectable profession for women of social standing. Initially published anonymously, her brother later revealed her identity posthumously.

The Jane  Austen center we went to was an eye-opener. The narration of her life by a scholarly gentleman shed light on one aspect that surprised me. It is commonly believed that there was no man in her life but briefly she accepted a proposal which she declined the next morning.

One can take pictures here, getting into regency costumes which are available for a price. A lady will help you get into them too. Outside the centre is a life size waxwork of Jane Austen unveiled in 2014 that is photograph worthy.

This is also Austen’s 250^th birth anniversary and a series of activities are planned at the centre and at other places associated with her life and works. This was another literary experience that gladdened my heart. My literary thirst was quenched.

Come to London and not make a stop at the tennis courts of Wimbledon? The walk from the train station to the courts was quite an experience. It was as if everyone in London had descended here. We had to move forward jostling and side-stepping with alacrity. Finally, we reached the gates of the revered courts. We had to be satisfied with taking a picture standing outside, of course, with ‘Centre Court’ seen alluringly as a backdrop. That was the closest we got to the famous grass courts. As we made our way back, we were sure the crowds thought we were returning from a match.

West Minster Abbey and the Tower of London tour was on the agenda for 5 out of 7. Arjun and I took it easy as the above tour would have clashed with my favoured programme. We had dosa in an Indian restaurant and then walked to the theatre to see ‘Mamma Mia’. Met Binita and Meera there while Arjun went to do what he likes best – visiting museums.

The musical, an original story based on the songs of Abba, was magical. The actors, the wonderful choreography, the costumes, the audience of shrieking teenagers made it a lively performance. The stage was small but the voices of the actors as they sang with gusto filled the hall with energy and joie de vivre. The involvement of the audience, and Meera’s excitement and enjoyment, were infectious. We couldn’t help but tap our hands and our feet to the catchy tunes and songs. It was a complete surrender to the charismatic atmosphere. The audience was told to curb their innate drive to sing till the end when they could join the cast enthusiastically – and did they do that!

The show was as brilliant as was the ‘opera’tic voice of the main actor. I felt that my teenage years had returned. The story has been praised for its strong female characters. And it’s a mother-daughter story also focusing on older women and their friendship. The irresistible songs fused effortlessly into the story is what perhaps made audiences all over dance in the aisles. Abba’s timeless songs and the storytelling magic made for unforgettable evenings in its 20 foot-tapping years in London. And for me, an avid Abba fan, it was a fabulous, captivating experience.

At the tube station, the crowds were overwhelming. Every train had people packed like sardines. We finally took the bus home. So I am happy to say that I travelled in every kind of transport on my London visit – airplane, train, tube, boat, uber, bus and my own 2 happy feet.

We couldn’t’ have said ‘Bye’ to London without saying ‘Hi’ to Buckingham Palace. As everywhere else, there were unbelievable crowds every step of our way. People had stationed themselves at the palace gates in such numbers that we didn’t ‘stand’ a chance. From where we finally got a viewing point, we had a clear view of the marching guards on their way to the palace to relieve the old guard. The liveried guards or soldiers in their distinctive uniforms, red tunics and bearskin hats with their accompanying military bands and horses made for a spectacular ceremonial display.

We then headed to Borough Market – the oldest and the most famous fresh food market on the Southern end of London Bridge. Dating back to the 12^th century, it’s a huge market under the railway lines for meat, baked and dairy goods – there’s an incredible range of food from all over Britain and the rest of the world and it provides high quality foods to locals and visitors. The market is a key part of London’s food supply and links city dwellers with fresh food from the countryside.

The entire market with its umpteen number of shops is a feast for the eyes. The sights, smells, vibrant flavours as one walks past is incredible. Shops displayed choco-covered strawberries, toasted sandwiches, fruit juices, chocolates, seafood, fruits, cheeses, fresh vegetables, freshly made food items, breads, mushrooms, oysters, donuts, each vying for attention from the keen shopper. One is really spoilt for choice here. There was a mile long line for Paelle – a rice dish from the Valencian community and one the best known dishes in Spanish cuisine. It was being sold as fast as it was being made and they even had bouncers to keep people in line. Over a hundred delicatessens lured customers with their amazing range of fine foods and free samples were offered as you walked past the stalls.

People were enjoying their food on stadium like rows of benches. We first thought they were watching some show. It turned out that was sitting and eating accommodation. We not only had our lunch at the market, we had a great dessert as well – a humble crumble which had an apple base topped with biscuit crumble and cream. Borough Markey is a very unique experience and it’s a veritable heaven on Earth for foodies.

On our last night in London, we played ‘Monopoly’, something we had been wanting to do right from the night we arrived. Meera was not very enthusiastic about this business of buying and selling but ended up owning stations and streets. I think she was quite happy when Aruna had to leave midway and so was eagerly helpful in putting things away and closing shop.

We had had such a wonderful time together – hum saat saath they – it was sad to part. The morning of our departure saw hugs and Thank Yous and See Yous and Take Cares. Arjun and family took the train to Paris, Aruna left for SFO and Ashwin and we headed home.

It was a marvelous holiday, one that I will remember as long as my memory is intact.

Kodaikanal

It was a holiday that we should have taken some months back. But the delay did not dampen the enthusiasm of getting away, albeit briefly, from household chores. Kodaikanal it was, where, fortunately, we did not have to use our kodai.

We flew into Madurai from where we motored to our temporary home away from home. Karthikeyan of our South Indian temple tour fame was our vahan chalak again. But this time, we enjoyed the luxury of his new Toyota. Conversing ceaselessly as was his wont, he deftly navigated the uphill journey. Curves, turns, hairpin bends were aplenty. My hairpins almost got dislodged. After the rough drive, we reached our haven. All the travails of the earlier 60 minutes were forgotten and forgiven. We were at Isla’s Ridge, a space curated by Isla (the owner) up in the Palani Hills. A Belgian born in Kodaikanal, a world renowned artist and a passionate designer, Isla is said to have travelled the world over by finally couldn’t resist the pull of her roots and created this property ensconced in Palani Hills. Isla’s Ridge is her vision, a homestay with a difference.

When we reached our chosen space it was late evening. Flashes of lightning welcomed us as also the unassuming twin bungalows. The manager very courteously and smilingly showed us to our rooms. We stood outside for a while breathing the fresh, cool breeze while he casually cautioned us against stepping out at night as wild boars and bisons would also have the same idea. The forest all around would harbour them during the day. A chill ran down my spine and it was not only because of the air. I wondered, were they intruding on our land or were we on theirs?

The simple yet yummy dinner of noodles soup, sauce, salad and ice cream succeeded in calming my nerves although once back in my room, I kept looking out of the window to see if any creatures were enjoying the quiet and inkiness of the night.

We woke up to a spectacular morning. A&A were up and about early with their cameras and binoculars as their birding instincts were given impetus by the trees and lush foliage all around. We broke our night’s fast at the table under the trees. The cosy sitting area offered a breath taking view of the distant hills and the valleys with the mist. The chirping birds, the refreshing zephyr on our cheeks and the aroma of the spread on the table was a sensuous treat. Home made bread, home made garlic cheese, home made fig jam along with dosa and sambar, piping hot from the kitchen, was divine.

We were not only mesmerized by the pristine, stunning outdoors but were enthralled by the interiors. There was an easy-going casualness about everything in the resort. The dining room was partly taken up by Isla’s unique library. Coffee table books looked at you invitingly from tables. Two almirahs fondly held books in English and French. Artifacts and curios, with an ‘antique’ness attached to them tastefully formed the décor of the room. Antique and traditional objects of art seemed to get along very well with contemporary items. The charming interiors of the rooms seemed to be curated with love and had furniture that was simple yet unusual. I particularly was impressed by a mandapam with Ganesha in a hitherto unseen stance.

Warm and invigorated after the heavenly breakfast, we were ready for Kodai town and also for a repeat of the turns, bends and traffic. We made our way through villages where the spirit of Diwali was palpable. Kids and adults, dressed in festive finery, were equally excited about bursting crackers in the middle of the road, some stopping for us and some getting a thrill from making us stop. Bits of paper strewn all over the streets made us feel at home.

As we sped along, we passed a cute waterfall where, we were told, one of the two Lyril Soap ads were filmed. We made a short nostalgic stop here. 

The Silver Cascade was a waterfall descending gracefully in white from stone steps high above. There was a dense crowd indulging in selfies, pics and loud chatting but finally we got a beautiful glimpse of the white waters cascading down a stony hill.

The Kodaikanal Natural Science Museum housed in a small building displayed the skins, bones and skeletons of huge and dreaded animals, kept in the safety of glass shelves. 

Our visit to the Pine forest was unforgettable. The tall trees were spread all over a large area and standing near them made us realize how small we were, pitted against nature’s majesty. The roots of the trees, gnarled, entangled and forming a network, seemed to have crawled out of the protective umbrella of the parent and branched out on their own. Standing in one place, we were completely overwhelmed by the expanse and grandeur of the forest.

The Kodai lake was choc-a-bloc with people in pedal boats, enough to deter us from testing the waters. We enjoyed the beauty and vastness of the lake from the shore. 

Kodai is home to umpteen shops displaying a boggling variety of chocolates. We had not seen such a mouth-watering combination of irresistible flavours. All the chocolates are locally made with home grown and imported cocoa and a variety of local flavours. I told Satan to ‘get thee behind me’ but he turned a deaf ear and we were lured into buying a few – is there anyone who can resist a chocolate or two? Spices and many varieties of cheese were also very popular tourist purchases. I can say all these sold like hot cakes.

 On our ‘ups and downs’ journey, Karthikeyan helped enhance our general knowledge about particular film stars. He pointed out to us sprawling mansions of celebrities. Gemini Ganeshan’s two wives had their separate abodes as also Rajnikanth and Kamal Hasan and Vyjiyanthimala. The 4 Ramraj brothers had their palatial houses in a row. Hidden behind thick and high walls, you could still catch a glimpse of the vast property, a sign of past prosperity, if you strained your neck a bit. One wonders what happens when the house owner passes away. Fights, as in movies?

Back at the resort, we were treated to a sumptuous roast vegetables and toasted bread dinner. The roast veggies dish was spoon licking good. A farm to table philosophy is practised here. With both local and continental flavours, dining here was a culinary delight. It rained a bit but thankfully we were in from our outing. Post dinner, we exulted in the view of the hills, the lights of houses in the valley, flashes from the Diwali crackers. What a divine night! What a serene escape from the worldly noise and humdrum!

On the morning of our departure, we decided to take a walk on the property with our lady host as a guide. The garden with colourful flowers, fresh vegetables and fruits and accompaniments like coriander, mint and ginger is a foodie’s delight. The farm also had animals. Four or five dogs, one of which was very friendly would follow us everywhere. Hens and cows also proudly roamed and grazed around. The owner’s two horses named Potluck and Diamond were handsome. The lady was telling us that if the mother (Potluck) was being petted, the son (Diamond) would immediately neigh as if to say ‘Nay’ it’s my turn now, and at that precise moment, as she petted the mother, the son neighed from where he was. It was such an immediate response as if he knew we were discussing him. 

Getting back, we realized there is a such a cosy, warm feel to the place; it’s as if someone has draped a shawl on our shoulders. The chef, the staff, the manager, everyone was so warm, friendly, affectionate and ready to tell us about the place. We felt as if we were family. Isla’s Ridge was an experience which will always bring a smile on our faces. 

Only one regret – we couldn’t meet Isla as she was on a Bombay to Goa visit. She was born in the same year as I and that would have been a great ice-breaker and conversation piece.

Thoothukudi to Thekkady

 

The places we visited in the first lap of our trip may not have had the sophistication of the earlier jaunts but the simplicity and newness were a pleasure.

As on our previous trip, this time also we flew into Madurai. Then on, it was bye Indigo and hi Innova. The driver and the car were different. The Kartikeyan of the previous trip was replaced by his brother, we were told. As Aruna said, we didn’t know whether it was his “own” brother, cousin brother, working brother or even a brother-in-arms! Sunder was taciturn but drove the new taxi with elan.

This trip was also, in a way, a pre-birthday gift for Aruna’s mom who would be turning 80. Quite a few novel and nice elements, I would say.

As we sped to our hotel in Madurai, what caught our attention was the sprawling onion market. Onions were arranged neatly on jute bags according to size and an entire street (footpath) was taken up by these tear jerkers.

The hotel we checked into had an overpowering yet majestic air to it. In the lounge, ornate sofas jostled for space with elephants and traditional Indian games, all in decorative wood. The center tables had chessboards, pallanguzhi games with unique heads of horses and monkeys – all in solid wood. Our rooms also had stylish wooden furniture.

We visited the Koodal Azhagar temple which had been on our bucket list since our last visit. One of the 108 divya deshams, this Vishnu temple was in the midst of a bustling neighbourhood. However, the vast area, the thin crowd inside and the soft breeze gave it a peaceful ambience.

Huge granite walls surrounded the temple, enclosing all its shrines. The temple’s 5-tiered gopuram, the gateway tower, was architecturally amazing. The central shrine with its elevated structure housed the images of the presiding deity, worshipped as Viyooga Sounderajan, in 3 positions – seated, upright and recumbent. Seeing the God in His seated and upright shrines was manageable but in His recumbent form in a narrow space, it was difficult to have His darshan. I was able to negotiate the steep steps to the top but could not scale the last wall in order to see the Lord in his reclining form. Kuppu and Aruna bravely accomplished the task but Ashwin stayed back for my sake.

Smaller shrines were dedicated to Lakshmi Narasimha, Rama, Krishna, Andal. The massive pillared halls also had exceptional sculptures, a trademark of South Indian temples.

Tuticorin (or Thoothukudi) it was, the next day. Ashwin teases Aruna saying that there are only two streets in that town – one to enter and one to exit. True to a certain extent but the lanes and by lanes made it seem more 3-dimensional.

Before going to Aruna’s house, we visited the family church which was almost next door. Established in 1503, it looked new and was well maintained. The exterior was painted a cool white and blue. There was no service going on so we could leisurely move about. The colourful altar and the statues inside depicting scenes from the Bible were spectacular.

We started out for our next destination with Aruna’s mom. The resort we had booked, “Anantya in the Village”, was more like a homestay, a heritage home, a traditional village house. The décor was minimal and the furniture was functional, not ornamental. The sloping tiled roof and the verandah with chairs exuded warmth and hospitality. It was a nice, quiet, old-style retreat. We were told this was a joint venture between a renowned historian and author, Pradeep Chakravarthy, and the Anantya family. The house has 8 rooms on 2 floors. The reception area had framed photos of various Gods on the wall as also in a niche. A very religious and scholarly person would be captivated by a shelf full of books, religious and historical. An antique swing made our wait (paperwork) worthwhile. This front room with the kitchen (Adukule) and the dining room formed one unit and was separated from the lodgings by a huge neem tree and other flowering plants. I heard the incessant, sonorous cry of the squirrel for the first time here. Birds also flew in and out fluttering and twittering.

The dining room was very interesting. Traditional but with tables set for the tourists. On one wall there were alcoves colored blue and yellow, in which alternately brass chombus and brass lamps were kept. The blue alcoves, representing water, had the lamps and the yellow ones, representing fire, had the small water pots. The explanation was that harmonious co-existence of water and fire, the two primal elements in Hinduism, is important.

The other wall was adorned with a series of beautiful handcrafted wooden fish. This was meant as a show of reverence for the Pandya kings who had ruled over this village and whose symbol on their flag was the fish. The fish also signified water which is synonymous with prosperity. The fish motif was an ode to the history of the place. The quiet dedication with which the kitchen staff worked, their warmth and the wholesome meals served added to the earthiness of the place.

We also took time off to walk on a beautiful stretch along the river Thamirabarani. The cool, at times brisk breeze made our stroll along the road more enjoyable. It was a scenic view with the river Thamirabarani full and flowing on one side and the tall palm trees, guarding as it were, the green lush rice fields on the other. This was a treat – serene moments far from the madding crowd.

The amazing property of the resort was right opposite to the western wall of the 2^nd Vishnu temple (Sri Aadhinatha Swamy Temple) we visited. This temple is supposed to be the most prominent among the nine (Nava Tirupathi) temples in Vaishnavism and is associated with Jupiter. The nine temples situated enroute from Tiruchendur to Tirunelveli are linked with the Navagrahas.

Located on the banks of Thamirabarani river, the temple shows Vishnu in a standing posture. Again, a granite wall encloses the temple and the pillars have remarkable sculptures. The temple, in this small and remote village of Alwar Tirunagiri, a town in Thoothukudi district is said to be the birthplace of Nammalvar, one of the 12 Alwars, and is built around a sacred tamarind tree. Nammalvar is said to have crawled and sat in yogasana in a burrow of the tree lending the place its sanctity. We had to climb a lot of steps to reach this particular sacred area. The unique tamarind tree, said to be an incarnation of Adisesha and more than 500 years old, rests on the roof of the temple with no roots to be found. The tree is said to be sleepless because its leaves do not close at all. Perhaps linked with this are the innumerable tamarind trees seen all along the route.

The tall sculpture of the main deity in the temple is made entirely of granite. Encompassing a large area with sturdy columns and painted rangoli in its passages, it breathed divinity. We had a good darshan but had to wait for the theertham and shatari. There is the temple of Nammalvar adjacent to the temple of the main deity in the same enclosure and only after performing the rituals and Aarthi to the golden Moorthi of Nammalvar the theertham is given to the devotees. We walked and climbed steps like never before, to our foot’s (dis)content.

The prehistoric live excavation site Adhichannalur we went to was a marvellous discovery. Dating back to 600BC – 1000BC it is said to be an ancient burial ground. It is located at the peak of a hillock offering a view of the Thamirabarani river which flows from the Agasthiya malai in the western ghats to the gulf of Munnar. All the excavated pits had the unearthed objects in them. Some had huge urns found with bones so they were assumed to be associated with burial. 

Work here was still in progress. Documentation needs to be done, the caretaker said, after which they might publish the findings. Exploring this site gives the tourist a unique opportunity to delve into the cultural history of the area and witness the ongoing work of uncovering ancient master pieces. We were diverted to a museum nearby which was as riveting. Here the huge pits which were dug up were covered with glass so you could walk on a side and look at the treasures below. Still to be completed, the museum displayed amazing objects of the Bronze, Iron and Stone ages. Outside the museum, lawns and landscaping were in progress. When complete, it will present a lovely, fresh and colorful view – a contrast to the ancient artifacts inside.

The staff at our homestay had told us about a red sand desert not too far from where we were. That was going to be our next stop. As we approached our destination, brilliant red sand was seen on both sides of seemingly less travelled route. Shrubs seemed enveloped in redness. Called “Theri Kaadu”, the red sand seemed to extend for a stretch of 50 sq kms or more. As we made a stop, we saw an awesome hillock of red sand. We walked on the fine sand, reached the top and marvelled at the dunes stretching below. An astonishing sight for us, a red letter day to be sure. A&A spotted birds in the palm trees and that added to their satisfaction. 

The 2^nd church we went to was picturesquely situated near the sea and the light house. It was on a hillock and as we climbed the innumerable steps, the strong breeze from the sea seemed to pull me away, my weight notwithstanding. It’s a coincidence that the 2 churches we went to had divine objects said to have been salvaged from a ship caught in a storm here – the wooden statue of Holy Mary in one and the heavy wooden Holy Cross in the other. We got a beautiful view of the sea, the fishing boats and the people enjoying themselves on the beach from our elevated viewpoint.

Come to South India and not talk sarees? The sarees specific to this place have beautiful embroidery on them, the same embroidery seen on the lampshade in our room. The chedi butta sarees are a traditional weave known for their intricate design and high-quality weaving. These traditional techniques, our homestay staff said, are passed down through generations to create beautiful garments.

Thekkady was our next halt. The scenery as we drove towards Thekkady on the Kerala border, was a sight for sore eyes. Hills on both sides almost merging with the green fields swaying in the gentle breeze, tall coconut trees and the 100s of windmills steadily harnessing wind energy. As a contrast, the 2 or 3 villages we passed were choc-a-bloc with humanity. We were also, for the first time, witness to a uniquely funny spectacle. We were told that a particular wealthy community here celebrated all functions big and small, and the family’s pictures with the date of the event were put up on huge flexis on the road side. Such flexis usually associated with politicians' faces, XL, large, medium and small were aglow with the pictures of random families in their finery – the bride and groom with parents in law, a small glowing girl with her kith and kin, a boy in a crisp dhoti looking up at his elders, a girl again surrounded by her loved ones – these referred to weddings, coming of age of a daughter or a son, and even an event as quiet as ear piercing was given dramatic publicity. All the info in Tamil was filtered for us by Aruna, our translator par excellence, whether in shops, or temples or flexi-bearing roads.

The last 15 minutes of our drive to Thekkady was on a ghat road with scary curves and sharp turns. This is where our trust in the driver is tested, I thought. The resort at Thekkady, CGH Earth - Spice Village, was reminiscent of the one at Marari beach, also in Kerala, which till date remains Meera’s fondest holiday spot. Thatched roofs kept the cottages beneath cool and comfortable. TVs and ACs were thankfully given the go by because why would one want to stare at a screen when nature’s beauty and bounty dwelt everywhere outside. The paths in front of the 52 cottages were a walker’s delight with inclines and slopes. Lawns here and there beckoned us to walk barefoot on them. Huge trees and flowering plants delighted us with their exotic names and origin. They were also a haven for a variety of birds and for A&A who photographed them with excitement. A huge jackfruit tree right in front of our cottage had succulent fruit hanging low and high. Squirrels and monkeys bypassed the ones almost kissing the ground and safely ate from the fruit on the higher branches.

Coffee / tea time on the lawns was a pleasurable evening activity. The lady with her cart / trolley would smilingly serve hot beverages with onion fritters, vada and biscuits. A place to smile at others, this is where we met the newly appointed General Manager of the resort who was a treasure trove of information and personal experiences with birds and wild life resorts. A&A shared their precious birding moments with him. I sat and basked in the setting sun and their illuminating conversation.

Dinner time would be a food and music time. The in-house artiste would play melodious semi-classical tunes on his Veena accompanied ably by the vidwan on the mridangam. Songs from the movie Roja were literally music to the ears. When complimented, the musicians were humbly overjoyed. Apart from the main restaurant, there was also an eatery called “The 50 mile” place, so named because all the ingredients, vegetables and fruits used in the cooking would come from within the local area. We had absolutely yummy food in both the places.

Valentine’s Day was celebrated here with special dishes and with 2 huge hearts decorated with flowers at the main restaurant. We thought of posing near it as a family, but finally only the better halves made the scene more colourful! Also on this occasion, each of the cottages, with the guests’ names, was given a lovely, hand-written heart shaped card. Just as we had seen the wonderful preparations for Christmas in the Andamans, here we were part of this day, actually geared towards videshis who formed the majority of the tourists.

We had planned a pug-mark walk inside the forest but when we reached the gate to the jungle, we were told that a herd of elephants were roaming around in a vicious mood, hence the activity had been cancelled. We were disappointed but we did the next best thing – we trekked on the road beside the forest, we were overawed by the denseness of the woods on both sides of the road but managed a determined 3.5km stretch with hardly any human encounter till we reached the forest range bus top from where we returned to civilization. Fearsome but playful black langurs, cuddlesome black chicks and large squirrels with long bushy tails made our walk back to the resort a ½ hour of pleasant discovery.

Boating on the Periyar river was also on our agenda and fortunately, there were no hiccups here. There were hordes of people thronging the waiting area. There was no chance for a queue to be maintained; people jostled and pushed to reach the patiently waiting boats, despite the fact that seats were numbered. We were overwhelmed by the crowd, the screeching of children, the shouts of adults and the giggles of teenagers. 4 boats with 400 chairs were occupied in a matter of minutes. We got good viewing seats and with the help of binoculars and a sophisticated camera, spotted a family of elephants, another family of wild boars, deer, bisons and different kinds of birds perched on fragile twigs in the water. It was a wonderful experience.

As A&A had trekking and rafting planned for the morning, they left very early and came back happy and exhausted. While they were away, we opted for a property tour. The naturalist showed us the organic vegetable garden, lot of unseen before birds, large squirrels hanging on branches by their tails and took us to the place where the elephant grass used in the thatched roofs was stored and then made ready for use.

Later in the day, we walked on the property for one more time and enjoyed the serenity and beauty of the place, luxuries we yearn for in the noisy world. I also realised that I had never before written (in English) or heard so many Tamil words – names of temples, deities, stories connected with the Alwars, the food served at the earlier homestay. That was a very novel learning experience for a half-baked Tamilian.

Birding pictures are available on A&A's blog (Thamirabarani and Periyaar – Birding (arkhub.co.in))